Jump to content
SAU Community

NM35 Intake Temp sensor

conan7772

By conan7772,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted
NM35 Intake Temp sensor

I have an informeter plugged in to my OBDII, showing intake temp etc.

Where is the sensor that monitors this ? AFM or TB

I have very high temps when cars been sitting aound and takes ages to cool down whilst driving.

Was at 70deg last hot day .

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467196-nm35-intake-temp-sensor/
Share on other sites
mr skidz Veteran

mr skidz

Posted
Posted

Not sure where your intake air temperature sensor is but it's common to see upwards of 70 degrees as it's just a slow reading sensor which reads the temperature of the housing it's sitting in and it's connected to the cylinder head via the intake plenum on an RB so it just measures heat soak basically.

It's normal for me to be on the side of the road and see 69 and 70 once you get it in 3rd or 4th and apply some boost you can quickly see upwards of 10 degrees drop almost by the end of a pull getting cool air flow through it is the key sitting stationery always cooks your iat sensors.


joshm35 Veteran

joshm35

Posted
Posted
hmm maybe sucking in hot engine bay air through open duct, don't have power duct seals.
didn't think it really mattered once car is in motion..

Yeah sounds right as no fresh air is moving through it stationary. The intake temps will be 10-15deg hotter than ambient with radiant heat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...