Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25 Drift Build Question's / Advice.

elleskyline
 Share

Recommended Posts

elleskyline Enthusiast

elleskyline

Posted
Posted

RB25 Drift Build Question's / Advice.

Chasing some basic advice for the finishing touches and general opinions on my RB25dett build, this motor will be primarily used for drifting and run on e85.

The build so far...
Block bored and honed
CP pistons
Eagle rods
ARP head bolts
ACL race bearings
1000cc bosh injectors
N1 oil pump
Upgraded water pump
Gates timing belt
Fuel rail 
Custom forward facing plenum
High mount steam pipe manifold
Pierburg external fuel pump, walbro in tank pump + surge tank
Trust fmic
Alloy rad

Turbo
I am unsure of the best turbo to run for my application. I do have a Garret gt3582R + external gate, which I got second hand, but has too much shaft play. I have been quoted upward of 1k for a full rebuild from MTQ Engine Systems. Should I repair it and run it, or get something more compatible? What should I be looking for? 

Obviously for drifting I want fast repsonse and not a lag monster, I am not chasing huge numbers from this build, reliability and good repsonse is the goal. 

ECU
Motec M8

External Head drains
I have heard really conflicted things about external head drains. Are they worth it and effective? I was looking at grabbing the Spool kit? And I will be running a catch can.

Should I run an oil cooler?

This is my first 25 build so be kind, I am only a grasshopper. Any valuable input appreciated. 
 

IMG_20160911_180935.jpg

IMG_20160425_121801.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467203-rb25-drift-build-questions-advice/
Share on other sites
bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted (edited)

its like anything, you set your power goals and go from there....    also what tracks youre going to run and diff ratio

but in essence that turbo will be too big for most drifting - gtx3076 with 0.82 rear housing is what I used all through my drifting and is the most common used over here for people wanting between 450hp to 500hp on 16psi - 20 psi respectively ...full boost about 3800 - 4K depending on a few things + tune etc

think about your long term goals ie: will you want more in the future

I think the gtx3071 (or similar size)  with 0.82 on 20psi which should give you about 475rwhp and better response if you are 1) new to drifting 2) have smaller tighter tracks  3) not competing at ADGP level

I had rear head drain in one of my engines, didn't do anything for me... but I ran my breathers out of the rocker covers to my catch can and that drained back to the sump... that is a saver for sure (also many opinions on this)

 

All things come  down to money etc but yes if you have the coin .....   pu tan oil cooler in and also a power steering cooler

 

Edited by bcozican
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Have you still got the original turbo? Not sure where you are but I would consider trading it in with Hypergear I am sure he can supply you with a turbo suitable for your purposes.

External head drains will do nothing for you. Read say the last half of this thread:

Mainly you need oil restrictors and sump breathers. Motec are top of the line and top dollar. I am sure a Link or a Haltech will do what you want. And yes an oil cooler in the power steering line would be good. Nice trailer by the way...

Komdotkom Rising Star

Komdotkom

Posted
Posted

Do you have a Motec M8 or that's what you are looking at?

The M8's are pretty damn old now (circa 1990) and aren't really supported by Motec, a mate of mine has one in an old Sports Sedan and it's a pain in the backside. You'd be much better off with a Haltech Elite or a Link.

I've got a Motec system on mine (M600+PDM+CDL3) but if I had my time again I would go with a Haltech becuase of their superior support for club level/budget motorsport. Motec are fine if you have cubic dollars, but for the sort of car you have it's overkill. 

If you currently have an M8, I'd sell it. You'll probably get $1400 ish for it depending on the options enabled, this will cover a lot of the expense of a newer ECU.

  • Like 1
Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

My suggestion would be to sell off the high mount manifold and run a stock manifold with a hypergear turbo, all the other parts look pretty normal for a solid RB25.

If you are planning on running the car hard (drifting, so yes) I would certianly suggest an oil cooler. Doesn't need to be huge, but make sure it's new and of good quality.

As suggested, read through the Oil Control thread and ask any questions you may have as oil control is crucial to an Rb build.

Good luck!
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Yeah its bad eh. Ey! Watch your mouth. Yep, spot on. The rear's are always gone too though from brake checking. I had them perilously close to a tree that we had taken down. I think the tree peeps may have taken it. Either for a trophy, or accidentally.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW 335i

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      f**kin' yikes! That insulation is the shittest stuff I have ever seen. You need to do an insurance job on that f**ker, pronto. WRT to the washer cover, I would have said that there'd have to be some at a wrecker, then remembered that it's a BMW, and reasoned that every single wrecked one would have been tailgating and so the front end would be trashed.
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh and I lost my headlight washer jet cover!
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Ok, so I got myself some X1 wheels really cheap to try out, they're a bit different and I like them but they're really narrow (18x8) they are available in staggered 18x8/9 also but really hard to find.  I kinda dig them, but not as much as the F10 19's I usually run, so these go into the wheel pile.         As I mentioned in another thread, I got a new exhaust. It's an off-the-shelf stainless one that fits OH-KAY. I don't love the tips size and how far they come out the back, I think I might cut the tips off and replace with some smaller (~3") ones that don't extend as far. It sounds really good though, I'm not sure if its just in my head but the car feels a little quicker, more responsive.      I fitted an eBay special front lip. Surprisingly it fit perfectly and all holes lined up. Its a little rickety but I haven't put any double sided tape on yet, I want to clean the front bar up where it has scraped the road a lot and fil in the number plate holes (or, get body coloured wrap to cover them - is this a thing?  I'm not sure if I'll leave it gloss or pain it matte. I really like it though, I don't particularly like the front bar without it, I don't really like the M-Sport and to get anything else is just too expensive. That said, I might need a new one now anyway as I dropped the car onto the jack after forgetting to put ramps under the front wheels. It bent a lot and while it did go back to normal after I got the car off the jack, I do fear I have not done it any favours.    Lastly, my headlights died. Different problems in each. They have gotten much dimmer over the past year or so, I put new (uber expensive) OSRAM bulbs in them but to no avail. One of them pointed at the ground and the other just kinda did its own thing with light working sometimes. Yeah, check this 18 year old BMW headlight wire. I reckon I know why they were stuffed.            BTW, the yellow and black is the power to the Xenons. Yikes. I hunted around an researched my options here. I would have loved to just get a replacement harness but not a thing. My car has adaptive headlights, that is they rotate left and right with the steering wheel. Good condition used adaptive xenons were over $700 each, non adaptive were around $400 each, but I couldn't help but think that they're all around 18 years old now, surely they'd have the same problems. So I looked at newer LCI headlights but they were even more expensive and I couldn't confirm that they'd be plug and play with lots of people having lots of opinions so not worth the risk.  I ended up getting brand new Chinese headlights from MARS. They're very close to OEM with only the angel eyes being a bit different. I didnt want crazy turn signals or sharp DRL's or anything. Not my bag.  They're not adaptive, I thought thats a feature I wouldn't really miss. So I coded that out.  The lights are awesome, they look so nice and they take so many years off the car. The angel eyes look great and the headlight brightness is ridiculous. I was so used to the old ones, I didn't realise just how bad they were. The new ones use the OEM bulbs, Xenon ballast and leveller motor which I was happier with. The only issue with them is that the rear cover is held on by SEVEN screws. This will be a nightmare to get to and open when I need to change bulbs.   
    • joshuaho96
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Now that you mention it I can see those too. More subtle. The lighting and low resolution makes it hard to assess super well what's going on but what is visible is bad enough to pull the motor.
×
×
  • Create New...