Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Really hoping someone has some insight for me. I recently had my R32 GTR serviced. Previously my os88 was running Os Giken LSD oil 80W-250 (I know, crazy thick). The previous owner had been using this in the box for 4 years and never had an issue, I also have not had an issue whilst owning it for the past 6 months. However after a few people's suggestions to use the "correct"oil...I changed it to the OS Giken Dogmeister oil 75W-140.

Since then I have a significant oil leak from the box and every time I select 1st gear the car stalls. The shop told me they put 2.2L in it...I was previously told it only needs 1.8L and thought maybe it's been overfilled and spitting it out. I jacked it up and seems to be leaking from the breather hose but there's oil everywhere so it's hard to pin point.

When the car is cold, I can select 1st gear, once it warms (the box) it will stall as soon as I engage 1st unless I keep the revs up and select it. Once I do this I can cycle through the gears and the car drives completely fine...until I come to a stop, select N then 1st again and it stalls (unless I keep revs up)

Does anyone have an insight or idea what could be going on? I understand the clutch might not be engaging or have an issue but as I said, it all ran perfectly before the gearbox oil change, its baffled me???

Dunno, but if I took my car to a shop to get an oil change, and then got it back and it didn't drive right, I'd take it back and tell them to fix it.
They might have put too much oil so it's pouring out of the breather, then maybe there's a clutch engagement issue? I obviously never driven a sequential, let alone an OS88, so I can't say.

Those are my guesses, good luck!

Dunno, but if I took my car to a shop to get an oil change, and then got it back and it didn't drive right, I'd take it back and tell them to fix it.
They might have put too much oil so it's pouring out of the breather, then maybe there's a clutch engagement issue? I obviously never driven a sequential, let alone an OS88, so I can't say.
Those are my guesses, good luck!

Im very happy with everything else the shop did. In regards to the oil, we changed the grade and wondering if anyone has insight if this could be the cause. Thanks anyway

Yes it does over flow happens to me, so I made an overflow tank.

also have a look at the clutch slave hoses and make sure there not twisted or kinked.

overflow tank is top left, old plastic bottle did the trick for abit ?

IMG_2327.JPG

Edited by QUP29

The car hasn't had a leak in 4 years, this all started since I changed the grade of oil to the thinner "supposedly correct" grade for the os88. The fact that it doesn't stall when selecting first when cold says it's ok when the oil is thicker. The new oil is thinner and perhaps when it warms up and thins out, it stalls when engaging first. Trying to work out whether the previous thicker oil was actually better or if something is wrong with my clutch.
What could be wrong with the clutch for this to happen only when the car warms up and the act that it drives absolutely perfectly once I keep revs up and select 1st. I have no issue driving the car and selecting gears after that. Only 1st gear is the issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm thinking that this is such a small part of the problem that you could easily forego the vac pump and just achieve 90% of what you need, which is keeping the gate open when off boost. It's not as if there are not already techniques to keep a gate fully closed under boost. After all, you have boost. Just use a wastegate actuator that will allow you to apply the boost on the appropriate side, just like every external gate out there.
    • Heres another fitment photo. redrilled the pattern to 5x112, and threw my audi´s rims on. had to touch the upper control arms with grinder, because the "sharp corner" was sticking about 2-3mm on the tire path. i have the "fender lip" mostly cut off, otherwise these (too) would contact with it. 20x9.5 ET25 rear    265/30 20x8.5 ET20 front    255/30 they are temporary, and look too big for the chassis. searching for 19s to it.
    • From experience, it will come back to bite you haha.
    • Background: my BMW 225i hatchback (rebodied MINI/X1) came with 3x RE003 and 1x Goodyear Asymmetric something. The RE003 roared and slid around, the Goodyear side was quiet and grippy. Definitely my car was thrashed before it got sent to dealers. My brother also got RE003 all round on his old VA WRX STI, I wasn't impressed with them, car was loud so can't comment on noise. Anyway, Hankook stopped making/updating V12 Evo2. So bought S1 Evo3 runflats. Great daily duties tyre and not that harsh ride. Tyre reviews site/youtube rated them as best stopping in the rain and I believe them. Next set, Goodyear Asymmetric 5 non-RFT. It beat PS4 in tests and is like $100 cheaper, so put them on. Great tyre, more grip then S1 Evo3 but a tad noisier as expected, still rocking them. Next set I am looking to go runflats, probably the new Hankook Evo. Although the new Pirelli PZ5 did well in tyrereviews test. Or go Goodyear Asymmetric 6 which was top tyre last year. The V12 Evo2 on my gen5 Liberty GT wagon did great in cold condition (drove to snowy mountains for a day so my husky can feel his ancestor's roots). Super impressive performance for $120 each lol. Never skimp on tyres, brakes, suspension. There's old pics of my R31's crappy random brake pads bending in the caliper at Oran Park track day somewhere around here. Anyway, my 2 cents.
×
×
  • Create New...