Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTT Front Crank Worn - Some Advice

Hi everyone! I'm looking for some options and advice to a serious problem that occurred to me yesterday.

As you can see from the images below the front crank has been totally worn affecting the Harmonic Balancer and everything else etc effectively make the motor and car dead atm. My car has been extremely well looked after as with everything i own its just one of those devastating things that has happened as the mechanic has said and I still can't believe it. Car has done 130K.

I'm just feeling out the options as its essentially an engine rebuild and i'm doing career stuff overseas etc this is going to be extremely costly. Should i repair/rebuild/wield/sell/hold off any ideas and opinions are welcome.

Based on the Gold Coast, Tweed Heads so if anyone knows any advice on Skyline engine rebuilders as the mechanic shop it is currently residing at are not specialists in that area. They've been amazing to deal with as they have been for the whole time my car has been going there over the years.

Seriously gutted...

Thanks in advance everyone.

14632709_1799994426882282_1734670811_o.jpg

14699629_1799994463548945_448876541_o.jpg

14699396_1799994396882285_1790505862_o.jpg

Nissan_Skyline_Front.jpg

Ouch man that sucks, pretty rotten luck! My car's at the workshop at the moment for a head gasket so I've been going through similar questions.

I think a rebuild is probably the most expensive option, especially if all you're after really is a stock engine. Lots and lots of labour plus the risk of missing something in the assembly, unless you pick a really good workshop.

I reckon an engine swap is probably the way to go. You'd probably be looking at around 2k for a second hand Neo and another 2k or so in labour (unless you have a friendly shop) so 4k-ish all up.

If you were to sell, it sounds like the car is currently pretty much a rolling shell so would be tough to get a fair price for it. This said if you don't need the money now but can't afford to rebuild/replace the engine one option is to just let it sit for a while if you have the storage – the way the prices are looking at the moment is pretty stable.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Ouch man that sucks, pretty rotten luck! My car's at the workshop at the moment for a head gasket so I've been going through similar questions.

I think a rebuild is probably the most expensive option, especially if all you're after really is a stock engine. Lots and lots of labour plus the risk of missing something in the assembly, unless you pick a really good workshop.

I reckon an engine swap is probably the way to go. You'd probably be looking at around 2k for a second hand Neo and another 2k or so in labour (unless you have a friendly shop) so 4k-ish all up.

If you were to sell, it sounds like the car is currently pretty much a rolling shell so would be tough to get a fair price for it. This said if you don't need the money now but can't afford to rebuild/replace the engine one option is to just let it sit for a while if you have the storage – the way the prices are looking at the moment is pretty stable.

Thanks for the detailed reply man i really appreciate it and it helped. I just still don't know atm what to do! There will be a solution one way or another i guess!

Few questions, what is your plan for the car?

A daily driven one? Then an engine swap will be the cheapest. You don't necessarily need to go to a shop for that, a few mates with a bit of know how can do it in a day.

A weekend car? Again an engine swap is the cheapest.

Big power one day? Then pull the engine and do a forged rebuild. 

 

20 hours ago, Cadmoon said:

Few questions, what is your plan for the car?

A daily driven one? Then an engine swap will be the cheapest. You don't necessarily need to go to a shop for that, a few mates with a bit of know how can do it in a day.

A weekend car? Again an engine swap is the cheapest.

Big power one day? Then pull the engine and do a forged rebuild. 

 

I'd say atm it's a daily driver but i'm on and off overseas.

So mate it's looking to be an engine swap.

I think a big power pull would be up to 10-15k which i can't justify atm. She has lots of mods as does most but still standard engine internals and turbo so she's extremely clean atm

I want to keep her for a weekend car in the future but i'm not sure what my future career stuff is. Whether its here or overseas which is why this couldn't have happened at a worst time! I'm at a crossroads for a lot things...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...