Jump to content
SAU Community

Diff Breathing a ...lot of oil

Kinkstaah
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Appreciate the comments, I should add more info

I get I shouldn't need additives for the OS Giken fluid, though its made for OS Giken riffs, not Nismo. Is there a difference that is relevant here? I surely don't know..

I haven't tried any other oil since the conversion and diff rebuild was done. Previously, all thinner oils worked amazingly (I.e normally) but would exit the diff within.. 300km of normal road driving. I don't know for sure if this behaviour persists post diff rebuild.

The tailshaft is new, so recently balanced. From what I know the uni was fine (fine enough for driveljne shop to say 'nah its fine' when asked.

The gearbox and engine mounts and diff mounts are all new. I mean I changed every piece of Nissan rubber in the car. Every bit!

The only thing I can think of is my car has a set of pineapples in 'Max grip' configuration. Given the fact this doesn't feel like tyre skipping (it feels like the subframe is going to fall out levels of clunk) then perhaps this has something to do with it.

None of the cars I've driven have had those pineapples installed. Or 'subframe alignment bushes' I think is the correct term. I did also replace the entire subframe with a non-hicas subframe, so can rule the subframe itself out as a cause.

I think based on this info I will try removing the pineapples to see if this changes anything. With less power back there now I probably don't need the level of squat I've had in the past.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Appreciate the comments, I should add more info

I get I shouldn't need additives for the OS Giken fluid, though its made for OS Giken riffs, not Nismo. Is there a difference that is relevant here? I surely don't know..

I haven't tried any other oil since the conversion and diff rebuild was done. Previously, all thinner oils worked amazingly (I.e normally) but would exit the diff within.. 300km of normal road driving. I don't know for sure if this behaviour persists post diff rebuild.

The tailshaft is new, so recently balanced. From what I know the uni was fine (fine enough for driveljne shop to say 'nah its fine' when asked.

The gearbox and engine mounts and diff mounts are all new. I mean I changed every piece of Nissan rubber in the car. Every bit!

The only thing I can think of is my car has a set of pineapples in 'Max grip' configuration. Given the fact this doesn't feel like tyre skipping (it feels like the subframe is going to fall out levels of clunk) then perhaps this has something to do with it.

None of the cars I've driven have had those pineapples installed. Or 'subframe alignment bushes' I think is the correct term. I did also replace the entire subframe with a non-hicas subframe, so can rule the subframe itself out as a cause.

I think based on this info I will try removing the pineapples to see if this changes anything. With less power back there now I probably don't need the level of squat I've had in the past.

I had "pineapples" in my diff too so doubt its the cause but easy to try I guess. Wouldn't have thought it would get that hot with normal road use. If you can get it up on a hoist you could try various things with a pry bar to see where there is excessive movement.

Here is a PDF from OS Giken warning against using added friction modifiers:

The Importance of OS250R.pdf

  • Like 1
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am tempted to get a gopro under there to get and figure out what is going on!

I will adjust the pineapples to just see.. but it is good to know that that isn't the cause at least.

I don't know If the run in procedure needs to run. Given I bought it 2nd hand, couldn't possibly still need a run in? I assumed simply driving on the damn thing for thousands and thousands of km would do that right? Did buy it used back in the day...

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

I had a knock from the rear end. I replaced the diff, drive shafts, shocks and various bits and pieces to no avail. Drove me nuts for months, in the end i bought some chassis ears and found the problem in less than 5 minutes. Was a loose bolt on one of the brackets that connects to the subframe.

I still have the chassis ears, they're just microphones on alligator clips that you attach on various points you suspect. You're welcome to borrow them, im located in Springvale south, not too far from you. Pm me if you want to give them a go.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I've already gone over the cam. A new one is going in. An old one is coming out! The new one is smaller, with less overlap. It has way more lift, but it will be more mild mannered (hopefully, probably very minorly) I'm also measuring for two more mufflers, with the goal of having four mufflers in my car. But that probably will be done by an exhaust shop in a drive in, measure, buy parts, install parts later kind of deal.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Mine is not even a GTR and I've been resisting the urge to make it a power monster for the last 25 years. And as a consequence, I have driven it to work nearly every day across that span of time.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Since the motor is out, I suggest pop in a nice dirty LS chop cam. MOAR of this please:  
×
×
  • Create New...