Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 (maybe R33/34?) boot/trunk lid lock remove and rekey

Thought I would do a quick write up on how to remove the lock assy from the trunk/boot lid and re-key/re-code it to work with your existing door locks and ignition assy.

I used the help of a video from YouTube for the actual re-key part, it made everything very simple.

Tools required:
Socket wrench and 10mm socket
10mm box end wrench
Needle nose pliers
Set of precision/jewelers screwdrivers
This video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX2AH9-isPA
*Optional* Small dainty fingers you got from your mom's side, not manly sausage fingers like dad :mad:

First step, get your boot/trunk lid, and flip her over, nice and gentle.:nervous:

IMG_1256_zpsctv8vada.jpg

You should see two 10mm bolts holding on the catch or latch assy (not sure what to label it). Remove those bolts and pull off the assy. I will say, looking back, this "might" not have to be removed, but it made it easier for me to see behind there for the actual lock assy.

IMG_1082_zps9tagjxty.jpg
IMG_1083_zpspmpx2fdb.jpg

Next, you'll want to locate the flat piece of metal holding the lock assy on. It has enough of a catch on it for you to get your finger on and pull whichever direction to get it off the lock assy. As far as I can tell, this is what helps hold the assy onto the lid. So make sure you don't lose it and/or bend/break it.

IMG_1085_zps8efgagmr.jpg
IMG_1087_zpsmvg3gbfy.jpg
IMG_1089_zps4fnrna2q.jpg
IMG_1090_zpsa0zf3jfx.jpg

You should now be able to push the lock assy out the lid.

IMG_1091_zpsgc7ipapi.jpg
IMG_1092_zpsgezvfpqw.jpg

Now, move over to your work area so you can begin disassembly.

IMG_1107_zps6bobe6vk.jpg


From here on out, I pretty much followed the video's instructions, pausing it each step. Of course it's a different vehicle, but they work the same way and have similar parts. Make sure to take your time and DO NOT lose any of those springs! Pay attention to the direction things were before you remove them. I would even go as far as taking pictures on your cell phone before doing a step, that way you have a reference to go back to in case you get stuck. The precision screw driver is a must, made it so easy to get parts off and pry little tabs up.

IMG_1108_zpsgp47db7n.jpg
IMG_1109_zpsvpvdhxw3.jpg
IMG_1117_zpsp1i51p3l.jpg
IMG_1121_zpskejd9i7b.jpg
IMG_1122_zpsaqb3fpc4.jpg
IMG_1123_zps5bg7epiy.jpg
IMG_1124_zpsdpssehak.jpg
IMG_1125_zpsu0azjh03.jpg
*NOTE* how the black metal cover appears to be angled, make sure it goes back the same direction*
IMG_1129_zpstoiro31a.jpg
IMG_1138_zpsyxfyp9l3.jpg
Here I just stuck the screwdriver in between the spring and twisted.
IMG_1139_zpsilqq6z6c.jpg
IMG_1145_zpstoihwxcv.jpg
IMG_1146_zpsmcuepylw.jpg
IMG_1148_zpsribzpz1t.jpg
IMG_1149_zpsjp59ghmw.jpg
IMG_1151_zpszlzq4hq1.jpg
Here I paid attention to which tumblers went down and which stayed up. That kind of helped in figuring out which to move around, since they all should go down when the key is stuck in.
IMG_1152_zpslc9adjfr.jpg
Just pry em' out!
IMG_1153_zpsugflh93d.jpg
IMG_1154_zpsoxcgtkwq.jpg
Turn over (maybe give a lil love tap, gently). Be careful!
IMG_1155_zpspfnklnyt.jpg
IMG_1156_zpsqewss9k7.jpg
IMG_1157_zpstngijkfm.jpg
Of course i kept them segregated, I just made one side top and one side bottom in my head and kept them that way and in order from closest to where the key goes in to the end, just in case.
IMG_1158_zpsnmeuusfj.jpg

Switch them around, til you get the key to go in and all the tumblers go down. Sorry, no pic of that, but should self explainitory on that one. Basically switch back and forth between these two steps:
IMG_1148_zpsribzpz1t.jpg
IMG_1149_zpsjp59ghmw.jpg

until they all go down and you can rotate the assy with the key inserted. IF you get them all moved around and one or two won't quite go down enough to be able to roate it, then you might have to file down a tumbler, til it works. I had no issues, matter of fact, had one and a spring left over, haha. :nervous: Re-assy is just reverse of steps.

Hope this was helpful to someone. Please feel free to make any corrections or give any tips.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...