Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Instrument Cluster not Working Properly ! (Tacho & Rev)

So i have this problem when i got the car, Its been through a crash before i got it

The Issue with it is that the Rev and Tacho doesn't work sometimes, for example ill be driving and the speedo and rev would be fine and then it would just both drop to 0 and the Kilometers on my dash would just disappear ! only thing that would be working is my Fuel gauge and my oil gauge !  

so i wouldnt know what speed im going or how high my rev is, and then it would just come back to life after driving for a while. Sometimes i start the car and it wouldn't even work.

So most of the time i have to have my GPS Speedo reader on my phone so i can keep track of my speed.

The fuse is fine, i hear people telling me to replace the Instrument Cluster but im worried it would do the same thing because it is working and for some stupid reason instead of my REV being at 1000RPM when its warm and stationary its always at 2000RPM, some faulty shit going on but the engine is running perfectly fine.

People said the Speed sensor might be faulty at the Ground cable, but what do people think it is PLEASE HELP !!

14680555_1307206515958739_6008200701567172495_n.jpg

Read my post in the other thread. And for future reference a fuse will either be blown or not, so if it was a fuse the issue would stay.

Read my other post. I cant be bothered typing it again :) lol

Take it out remove & clean the 3 electrical connectors replace them & check probably a bad connection by the sounds of it. Be gentle as they are just strip connectors just clamped in by the plugs.

Before replacing the cluster have you PM'd the guys above or followed what has been suggested since they're familiar with your cluster's issue?

Have you used an electrical connector spray to dissolve oxidation? Being an intermittent problem it cannot be the fuse anyway. Have you tried this cluster on the same model of a mate?

Easy way to explain it is dry solder/contacts in the PCB of the cluster, specifically the speedo. The soldering of the clusters is usually of poor quality and overtime it's easy for it to go 'dry' and the condition degrade, causing intermittent faults on the cluster. If you aren't the best with a soldering iron/electronics you can get a place to do it for you and test it for like $200 or something and restore it to new condition I guess. To sum up, the electrical circuit on the PCB which gives you the reading for your tacho has a bad connection due to dry solder/contact but the needle still works fine resulting in the obscure rpm's you see in the cluster.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...