Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just got the head for my rb25det neo back from being ported and reconditioned..

I have noticed the front intake cap appears to have been damaged in transit.

It is not perfectly round where the seal sits, there is also 2 small cracks, 1 where the seal sits and another on the top surface.

I understand these caps cannot be replaced without getting the head linebored.

Would this cap be OK to reused considering there is no damage to the surface that sits on the cam?

I have emailed the company that reco and ported my head but won't get a response till next week..

If I was to try and recoupe my losses through the transport company it will likely take a long time and I may still be down $$$ to get a new head or get this repairedc9b27bd305a80b789e5cdb4cb20aba22.jpg158cd4a0c7ecb9fcf932258cd668858a.jpge35260a8a0e3d59daecf7c9318a2b4ae.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467499-damaged-cam-cap-on-fresh-head/
Share on other sites

Better off not to dodgy up that damaged cap.

You can find a cap off another head and fit it without necessarily needing a line bore. It needs to be dummied up, measured and checked that the cap sits concentric with the bottom. You would want to get the engine re conditioner to do this because they will have the measuring equipment required. I've done this in the past with success after a cap mysteriously went missing. The heads would be machined with good enough consistency in the factory that a lot of caps could possibly be interchanged between heads.

Thanks mate, I'm pretty pissed off at this point just seems to be one thing after another. I will have to wait until Monday to get a response from the machining shop but hoping they had some sort of insurance on the freight.. if a cam cap cannot be sourced is having them line bored a practise that has been done before and would it be a very cost effective repair?

Not sure on the line bore because i've never had to do it. You'll find out from the workshop once the easier options have been exhausted i guess. Put out a wanted to buy and see if people have got any old heads laying around to pinch their caps. 

Just by chance I may have one floating around in the garage at my mum's house. I'll let you know by Monday.

I'm running with an other cap that the one the head came with. Two trackdays and some km on the roads and no signs of wear on the cam nor the cap so you can use another cap if needded.

This cap is not extremely loaded because the timing belt is pulling the cam downward and all the efforts of the springs on the 1st cylinder are handed by the 2nd cam journal. This one is really just the support for the cam seal.

And the fact that these cracks are black inside mean that they are there since a while, you just didn't noticed them before I think.

Did you ream or linebore the head, or meaure it when you put the other cap on?
It was definitely not damaged before, it would have been picked up by myself or definitely by the machine shop, and there was another mark on the front of the head where it looks to have been dropped.
Regardless the head is back off and packaged up to be sent away on Monday..

Nope and nope.

I fitted the cap without the cam to "check" the alignement visually but didn't measured it nor linebored it. As it sat flush with the head I just installed the cam and tested it but checked it twice since the installation (after each trackday) and nothing to report, it work as it should.

 

Do you think that the head fell off on the cam cap during transport ? The box where the head came in should show some trace of this shock. Anyway this will take time to get it repaired. Given its position I wouldn't mind using an other cam cap, doing it in the middle of the cam where the cap is taking effort from the spring is another story and may need a linebore. But this one is "replaceable" to me as it is not as critical for the cam function, it's there more for sealing purpose.

I understand what your saying about the front cap having no load on it, but its off already and the risk is too great..
I didn't really preserve the box for inspection when I unpacked the head, but I am sure it has been dropped. I got the head back 4 weeks ago but it has been sitting boxed up on the shelf waiting to be installed, If that Is enough time for the cracks to turn black.
There was no insurance on the freight and I expect I will have to cop the full cost of it myself
d9e30865ef8287888e6486260f1c5c35.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, but they are definitely one of the default choices. Well established.
    • Has anyone used > https://performancecoating.com.au/  
    • Haha actually I did join back then under a different email address,  I couldn't re-activate my account so made a new one! I didn't post much anyway so not missing out on much. Amazing to see how the value of the cars and parts has changed over the years, also ACT section appears to be dead now. 
    • Thanks... It's in pretty good condition overall, probably due to not being drifted/tuned however being a daily driver has taken its toll. Had 100k on the clock when I got it, up to 180k now. Unfortunately it's not 100% dent free, it's got a small dent on FLH side and broken indicator from where I hit a small kangaroo at high speed. If you look at closely at pic #5 you might spot the dodgy trailer light repair my old man and I rigged up as temporary repair! - It's still there due to a combo of needing the car as daily driver and then too lazy/busy to fix properly. I've a couple of other minor accidents accidents as well but nothing major. One required a new front bar and unfortunately the smash repairer ordered the normal gtst one and not the aero bar. Needed the car back asap so just went with it, regretted ever since.
    • I can't believe that anyone is foolish enough to believe that the base maps are for any other purpose than to drive the car up onto the trailer/truck or gently creep it to the dyno. No matter how good they are, they can never be any better than the factory maps**, and only the foolish trust those on a significantly modified setup. **Yeah, yeah. I know there's also the difference between factory maps being fixed to certain injector sizes and MAP/AFM/VE relationships, and the likely aftermarket ECU base maps being better able to handle the sorts of changes that would render a stock ECU dangerous, like different sized injectors. But let's just ignore that for the moment, because the principle is still the same.  
×
×
  • Create New...