Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CTP Savings At Last in NSW Whilst With NRMA VVC

We've known for a while now that Shannon's offers discounts on CTP Renewals on cars that are insured by Shannon's. We also know how horrendously expensive CTP Premiums are, for reasons we can discuss elsewhere.

Now, NRMA Vintage Veteran and Classic are upping the ante. But there are hoops your need to jump through...

So, pay attention!

 NRMA%20VVC-2_zps2q27hsuz.jpg

 

The original NRMA VVC Invoice has been destroyed (by an NRMA office worker), but as you can see, on the accompanying form, I've written down $758 as being the Premium Due for my CTP Renewal.
On the original Invoice, it states that there is no accompanying NRMA Insurance that would ordinarily reduce the CTP Premium.
That's because NRMA is slow in linking the VVC arm to its CTP Renewals.

If I had paid online, I would have had to pay $758. If I had paid by phone, I probably would have paid $758. If I had paid at Australia Post, I definitely would have paid $758.

Now for the kicker...

 NRMA%20VVC-1_zpsdtz2qb67.jpg

 

By paying at an NRMA Branch - and here's the important bit... - asking to adjust the CTP Premium because the car is insured with NRMA VVC, I have saved $280!!!!!!
Now I don't need to tell you that $280 can buy me a degustation meal for two at Tetsuya's. But hey, you have better things to do with $280 than by an empty-nester like me!  

 

 

 

  • Like 5

Awesome stuff Terry!! Thanks for sharing.

I wouldn't mind lining up at an NRMA branch to save that kind of money. Although most of the times I've gone into an NRMA branch, the most I've had to wait is a couple of minutes.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

I tried this with my renewal coming up. $900 for CTP this year (metro Sydney, male, aged 25) and I was keen on the saving. Got to the branch and asked about it, they said "no" immediately because there's nothing they could do about my age. They mentioned that I wouldn't see any savings on CTP until I'm 30. Tried again on the phone with NRMA VVC and they said the same thing. I'll try again next year I guess. 

  • Like 1

After recently going through the NRMA claims process after hitting a kangaroo and the entire repair process taking 6 weeks to repair a headlight, passenger side guard and bonnet on a Toyota Avalon, I would trust any insurance company underwritten by IAG with extreme scrutiny. I was promised that the repairs would be completed by a certain date and because it wasn't I now have a car over 1000kms away from where I now live with no practical means of getting it to me... :glare:

25 minutes ago, salavace said:

I tried this with my renewal coming up. $900 for CTP this year (metro Sydney, male, aged 25) and I was keen on the saving. Got to the branch and asked about it, they said "no" immediately because there's nothing they could do about my age. They mentioned that I wouldn't see any savings on CTP until I'm 30. Tried again on the phone with NRMA VVC and they said the same thing. I'll try again next year I guess. 

Damn, doesn't sound like ill have much luck then.. 

On 10/29/2016 at 10:20 AM, Terry_GT-R34 said:

I wonder if other states have links set up between NRMA VVC, RACV VVC, SGIO VVC etc and their CTP section???

 

QLD appears to however through a different mechanism, for regular ol' me it's $380 state wide for Class 1 (i.e. Car and stationwagon) interestingly there is a class for  vintage, veteran, historic or street rod motor vehicles' which is $75... whether your car would qualify for this or not I do not know...

 

  • Like 2
4 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Parents have been with NRMA for decades, had a couple of claims, no issues (had hire car so no loss of transport).

I'm glad your folks have had a good run with NRMA, mine has just been an ongoing headache! Loss of transport wasn't our issue, they promised that the car would be repaired before we permanently moved to QLD, and because it wasn't we had to abandon the car and I now have to sell the car via proxy. Had they been upfront with the possibility of a delay I would have slapped a wrecker headlight on it and dealt with the rest of the repairs in QLD.

To be honest, it has been many years since parents made a claim. One claim was a "disabled" person on a motorised scooter running through a busy roundabout and hitting the rear guard of my mum's Commodore. Took two years but NRMA sorted that out (won the case). Oh Police charged my mum with neg driving for doing literally nothing wrong (she paid the fine for some reason). We had problems with the painter not matching the colour right (it was Botanica Mica) but that was between painter and my dad (NRMA preferred repairer), my dad got him to repaint it for free and it was sorted then.

So hearing your story I'm actually not surprised. Were they waiting for Nissan to get the parts or something? They always give it to the cheapest quote if you don't use your preferred and that shop can stuff everyone around.

52 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

They always give it to the cheapest quote if you don't use your preferred and that shop can stuff everyone around.

This is probably where I went wrong... It was their "NRMA approved" repair centre in Rosebery... 

It was a 2000 Toyota Avalon and the story they gave me that they received a guard that was also damaged from a wrecker and I got this news the day before we were moving. This news also came after they had the car for a week and after they first inspected the car two weeks prior. NRMA / IAG took the stance of "we aren't at fault so we aren't doing anything about it"

Now this was all over a sub $5k car, if I had to go through the same process with my old Skyline that I was unreasonably and emotionally attached to I would have properly lost my shit

  • 1 month later...
On 11/14/2016 at 8:25 AM, salavace said:

I tried this with my renewal coming up. $900 for CTP this year (metro Sydney, male, aged 25) and I was keen on the saving. Got to the branch and asked about it, they said "no" immediately because there's nothing they could do about my age. They mentioned that I wouldn't see any savings on CTP until I'm 30. Tried again on the phone with NRMA VVC and they said the same thing. I'll try again next year I guess. 

Same here.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...