Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 Retrofit

Carbonsky

By Carbonsky,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Carbonsky Explorer

Carbonsky

Posted
Posted

R32 GTR Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 Retrofit

So after numerous ridiculous nights driving without adequate lighting in my R32 Skyline. I decided to do something about it. I reached out to TRS customer support and they began to point me in the right direction. I made a few additional calls to a couple of individuals TRS referred me too as they had completed retrofits on a few R32's as well. After these insightful discussions I boiled it down to going with either the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 or the Morimoto Mini DS2 4.0. After numerous recommendations I chose the DS2 4.0! I placed my pre-ordered through TRS and waited patiently for these bad boys to come in. As soon as they arrived it was time to get to work. First of all I must say the quality and design of these are incredible, but they weren't going to install themselves. After staring at them for at least 2 hours and surfing numerous forums on previous retrofits it was apparent that I was not getting this done without hacking at my OEM projector. See the DS2 is significantly smaller and shorter than the OEM projector so I would need a bracket to step up to the OEM placement. What better bracket to manipulate than the OEM. I proceeded to cut the OEM housing leaving only the OEM frame. (Never mind the blocks they came later. Forgot to take a pic of the bracket when I first cut it)image.jpeg

At this point I lined up the DS2 4.0 and used a punch to mark placement of the screws and created and cardboard template to determine what approach I was going to use to secure. image.jpeg

I've seen numerous individuals shave the OEM brackets as thin as possible, trim, drill and separate the new projector to mate in between the fabricated OEM bracket. I chose a different route as I did not want disrupt what I assumed to be a carefully thought out design so I ended up welding blocks (about an 3/4" long and a 1/4"of an inch high) along each corner where I originally marked, then drilled holes, and checked fitment a few times, shaving each block respectively using a small level. image.jpeg

Ensuring fitment between bracket and OEM bezel image.jpeg
I must say final fitment is incredible! secure and as flush as OEM. image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg
Only one issue I caused myself was I forgot to trim the OEM bracket to allow the wiring for the high beam solenoid so I took a Dremel and filed away enough space to allow for the connector to secure into the projector. 
All in all I'm super stoked and can't wait to install on my vehicle.image.jpeg

  • Like 3
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Nice! I have a few projectors lined to to retro into R32 housings, this is a good sight!

BTW, have you installed it on the car yet? See if the beam lines up with stock halogen. I found on my FX-R installs (no brackets), the projector points too low.

  • Like 1
Carbonsky Explorer

Carbonsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@niZmO_Man

No; I have yet to install on the car. I'm attempting a few other add-ons while the lamp is still apart. Haven't setup the adhesive just yet. I will definitely add some photos upon install. 

I hope to maintain factory position by using the OEM bracket. At this point I'm more concerned about fitting the D2S bulb and igniter into the back of the housing. The mini D2S is shorter than the factory projector. I've considered installing the hardware while everything is apart but that still leaves me with the issue of changing a blown bulb in the future.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Depends on what bulb you get. I have Philips 85122 (OEM) and they've been fine on my car for 3 years. No need to pump more than 35W through them as well.

Also, the Koito OEM bulbs on my Subaru were fine after 5+ years of "outback abuse".

If you get a cheapie, can last anywhere between hours and years.

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted
On 11/4/2016 at 0:22 PM, Carbonsky said:

@niZmO_Man

No; I have yet to install on the car. I'm attempting a few other add-ons while the lamp is still apart. Haven't setup the adhesive just yet. I will definitely add some photos upon install. 

I hope to maintain factory position by using the OEM bracket. At this point I'm more concerned about fitting the D2S bulb and igniter into the back of the housing. The mini D2S is shorter than the factory projector. I've considered installing the hardware while everything is apart but that still leaves me with the issue of changing a blown bulb in the future.

How'd you go with this?

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
amnash Enthusiast

amnash

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/3/2016 at 9:22 PM, Carbonsky said:

@niZmO_Man

 At this point I'm more concerned about fitting the D2S bulb and igniter into the back of the housing. The mini D2S is shorter than the factory projector. I've considered installing the hardware while everything is apart but that still leaves me with the issue of changing a blown bulb in the future.

How did you go about connecting the bulb plug? Did you cut a large hole in the back of the plastic housing ?  Did you seal it somehow? 

Edited by amnash
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...
JLAB Newbie

JLAB

Posted
Posted
On 6/10/2017 at 10:34 PM, Carbonsky said:

Late reply but I had a unfortunate injury and a few surgeries but bouncing back and finishing up this long over due project IMG_4619.thumb.JPG.cd7ec705792915cd2cedb34f706bf368.JPG

Not sure if I should go with the tint (on the left) or keep stock look... especially since the corners are going to be smoked

How/where did you get/install the daytime led strip on the bottom outline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...