Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On 17/12/2016 at 1:37 PM, R33gtst2016 said:

Or is it not a gasket just sealant ?

do not ever use sealant, you'll end up in a sad financial mess if you do.

OEM seal or OEM seal those are your options.

Note the S14 and S15 seal fits too on your R33 R34

So I've f**ked up along the way somewhere I changed it over I thought all went well, but won't start, cranks over but doesn't start tonight after work I gotta take it back out and double check my wiring were right positive to positive n negative to negative, there's a dash light on but I dno what it is

That tells you when your Cat Coverter is blocked (there is a temp probe in the Cat that sets off the light at a certain temp)

Could it be a Cat problem? If that is coming up when you are trying to crank I doubt it. I'd only expect it to come up after the car is driven for a bit

Are you hearing the pump run? If no it may be a wiring issue. I remember remarking at how brittle/fragile some of the fuel pump wiring was, maybe something has broken with those. If you are hearing the pump run I would pull the whole assembly back out and make sure everything is installed as it should be.

I would confirm you are hearing the pump first. Then, if you are, pull the fuel line going to the fuel rail off and try to crank it and see how strong of a stream you have (you may want to just test for pressure).

If those tests "fail" then I would pull the pump out and inspect everything.

Not sure if its the same on R32's but on my R33 if i turn the key about halfway between on and start and hold it there the fuel pump runs. Did so with Power FC anyway and the Link does it to however cuts the pump after a few seconds

  • 2 weeks later...

What would happened when I try to start the car if I didn't put the hoses on correctly? I've checked I can defiantly hear the pump, but still won't start just cranks, thought that I've put everything back the way it was originally but don't understand why won't start. Any ideas

Maybe you have the inlet and outlet hoses crossed? On the 32s that space is tight and they could easily get crossed. Easiest way to check is to pull fuel line going to rail and reroute it into a bucket. If you can crank it and fuel comes out, you know they are plumbed correctly.

Also, what condition is your fuel filter in? A clogged filter could give you grief as well.

If you took the hoses off at the pump and aren't getting any flow, the issue is in the tank. If the pump was working correctly you'd have fuel everywhere.

To answer your last question, you want to focus on the hose between the filter and the rail, removing it from where it connects to the rail.

But start at the tank, it sounds like your pump isn't pumping.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
    • Was that Australia Delivered Duncan? Does it have siren etc?   I used to have remote start on an old 32 two decades ago, it was a cool feature. I used to wake up early in winter for work. Start it and by the time i was out the door a few minutes later the engine was warmed up and the heaters had the car toasty. It was great.    I don’t mine the ambience lighting.  I drive a western star and it has footwell lights and ambient lighting and it’s great! From the pics of seen of them installed in a skyline I think it’s a nice touch 
×
×
  • Create New...