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Just Got My First R32 GTR! Maintenance??

HI everyone!

Yesterday I brought home a 1990 R32 GTR. Couldn't be more excited as I have wanted this car since I was a kid. Finally they became legal here in the USA. 

The car is 118xxx KM on it. It has a few mods on it and more or less seems to have been taken care of by the previous owners. 

For my own sanity I would like to swap all the fluids and do some slight maintenance :

Motor Oil , transmission Fluid, Clutch Fluid, Brake Fluid, Coolant

Spark plugs (gap), Brake lines, Brakes, Blinker Fluid 

 

What does everyone recommend/Prefer?

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Hi. Congrats. If you wouldn't mind doing a little search first I am sure you will find a massive amount of information on what fluids to use on your well documented vehicle.


I did a good amount of searching. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but everything I have found was from 2009-2010. Was hoping to get a little more up to date info

Thank you!

Hey Yuriy, (saying in the nicest way possible) The car specs have not chanced since 2009 so all the info you have found will still be relevant. but here is what I personally use anyway (not saying its the best just what ive been using) may not be applicable brands in USA?

Motor Oil: Penrite HPR5 5-40w Full synthetic every 5000km

Ryco Oil Filter

Gearbox oil: Redline light weight shockproof

Brake/Clutch Fluid: Motul 660

Coolant: Nothing special just whatever greenstuff was at the local

Blinker Fluid: Castrol GT34
 

get your wallet ready if you want to do it properly.

this is what you should expect to need in the next year.

-do the obvious, new oils and fluids/ filters throughout. spark plugs (copper), coilpacks (splitfire or oem)

-grab a spare CAS, AFM cos your gonna eventually need to at least replace them or rule them out wen you get a missfire.

-brakes, good tires ect, i feel allot of people miss the obvious things before putting shiny things on the car.

-pull your rear subframe out and so all the bushes and rubbers at once (get a full kit) and check the condition of the shocks. trust me at some point your gonna eventually putt the rear sub frame out so just do it now. maby look at swaybars or upgrading the shocks/coilovers depending on their age, then you can set the whole thing up to your driving style.

-all coolant hoses, this includes all heater hoses. bitch of a job but once you replace one your gonna eventually do them all and its easier doing it once, especially if your paying for labor.

if your serious about maintaining these cars to a high standard then you will spend plenty of money before modding anything, i usually upgrade what im maintaining, i.e. if im gonna spend $1000 on pads and rotors, why not upgrade to brembo calipers and spend $2000 all up, i know im gonna eventually do it.

 

 

also get some picks up!

 

Edited by GH05T
  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Clintox said:

Hey Yuriy, (saying in the nicest way possible) The car specs have not chanced since 2009 so all the info you have found will still be relevant. but here is what I personally use anyway (not saying its the best just what ive been using) may not be applicable brands in USA?

Motor Oil: Penrite HPR5 5-40w Full synthetic every 5000km

Ryco Oil Filter

Gearbox oil: Redline light weight shockproof

Brake/Clutch Fluid: Motul 660

Coolant: Nothing special just whatever greenstuff was at the local

Blinker Fluid: Castrol GT34
 

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 and since OP is in the US that would suit.

Filter - nissan or any quality name brand

Gearbox - Redline light shockproof is good in a worn box, but if the box is in good nick, then MT-90 would probably be a better choice

Brake/clutch - Motul 660 is overkill for a street car, its a lot more expensive than a regular super dot 4, and typically the higher temperature brake fluids are more hygroscopic, so require more frequent changing. Any quality super dot 4 should be fine.

Edit: oh and +1 to doing ALL the coolant hoses, and yes its a bitch of a job. Plenum off IIRC.

3 hours ago, Clintox said:

Hey Yuriy, (saying in the nicest way possible) The car specs have not chanced since 2009 so all the info you have found will still be relevant. but here is what I personally use anyway (not saying its the best just what ive been using) may not be applicable brands in USA?

Motor Oil: Penrite HPR5 5-40w Full synthetic every 5000km

Ryco Oil Filter

Gearbox oil: Redline light weight shockproof

Brake/Clutch Fluid: Motul 660

Coolant: Nothing special just whatever greenstuff was at the local

Blinker Fluid: Castrol GT34
 

Thanks for the info! I have not heard of penrite or ryco, I will do some research into it. I have used mobile 1 in my previous honda turbo builds? Would that be adequate? Redline and Motul I have used before. Glad to know these cars like them.

Question on the fully synthetic, I was always under the impression that going synthetic in high mileage cars was not recommended, It will go through the seals and start leaking?

I actually have a can of castrol gt34 laying in the garage for the blinker fluid. Glad we are on the same page with that one!

 

 

1 hour ago, GH05T said:

get your wallet ready if you want to do it properly.

this is what you should expect to need in the next year.

-do the obvious, new oils and fluids/ filters throughout. spark plugs (copper), coilpacks (splitfire or oem)

-grab a spare CAS, AFM cos your gonna eventually need to at least replace them or rule them out wen you get a missfire.

-brakes, good tires ect, i feel allot of people miss the obvious things before putting shiny things on the car.

-pull your rear subframe out and so all the bushes and rubbers at once (get a full kit) and check the condition of the shocks. trust me at some point your gonna eventually putt the rear sub frame out so just do it now. maby look at swaybars or upgrading the shocks/coilovers depending on their age, then you can set the whole thing up to your driving style.

-all coolant hoses, this includes all heater hoses. bitch of a job but once you replace one your gonna eventually do them all and its easier doing it once, especially if your paying for labor.

if your serious about maintaining these cars to a high standard then you will spend plenty of money before modding anything, i usually upgrade what im maintaining, i.e. if im gonna spend $1000 on pads and rotors, why not upgrade to brembo calipers and spend $2000 all up, i know im gonna eventually do it.

 

 

also get some picks up!

 

 

Honestly I want to do it half properly at the moment, I am still not 100% if I want to keep the car. I am probably 70% yes. I want to get slightly more than basic maintenance done and get the car to drive strait than make the decision.

New oils and fluids are a must! Once I pick out brands I will get to it next weekend.

When you say "filters throughout" what other filters are there, other than oil and air? Is there an inside cabin air filter I should replace?

What sparkplugs do you recommend?

I should note that I was told by the seller that the car has upgraded R34 turbos.

Coilpacks, CAS, and AFM are somewhat expensive, so I will wait on those until I decide if I keep the car.

Brakes are extremely necessary along with new rotors and braided Lines. (The car doesn’t really want to stop. Was scary driving her home for 5 hours) Recommendations?

You are correct, most people, especially that I know, "Rush to put shiny things on" before they have a good base to work with.

Pulling the subframe I don’t mind, will keep me busy for a weekend. Do you have a link where I can buy the full rubbers kit? Will do this if I keep the car.

Shocks are hks hypermax Coilovers all around; they feel in decent shape for now.

Swaybars is something i am extremely interested in. I have read very good things about Cusco, but am open to suggestions.

Is there a kit for all the coolant and heater hoses?

Modding is third on list. Like I said earlier, a proper base is a must.

As soon as I wash her tomorrow it will be pics galore!!

Thanks again!!

34 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 and since OP is in the US that would suit.

Filter - nissan or any quality name brand

Gearbox - Redline light shockproof is good in a worn box, but if the box is in good nick, then MT-90 would probably be a better choice

Brake/clutch - Motul 660 is overkill for a street car, its a lot more expensive than a regular super dot 4, and typically the higher temperature brake fluids are more hygroscopic, so require more frequent changing. Any quality super dot 4 should be fine.

Edit: oh and +1 to doing ALL the coolant hoses, and yes its a bitch of a job. Plenum off IIRC.

Glad to know that Mobile 1 is a good choice. 

I have a discount at a nissan dealership so I was hoping going OEM is not a horrible choice for filter.

When you say worn, how worn are we talking about? The shifts are smooth, every so often I get I slight grind in 3rd but I think that is more related to the clutch than the transmission itself. 

At least for now this is going to be a stockish street car so I will give a lot of thought to the brake/clutch fluid 

Seems like this coolant hose replacement seems like a task and a half. Might wait for spring to do that. Hate working in the cold.

 

Thank You!

1 hour ago, powerdbygarrett said:

Glad to know that Mobile 1 is a good choice. 

I have a discount at a nissan dealership so I was hoping going OEM is not a horrible choice for filter.

When you say worn, how worn are we talking about? The shifts are smooth, every so often I get I slight grind in 3rd but I think that is more related to the clutch than the transmission itself. 

At least for now this is going to be a stockish street car so I will give a lot of thought to the brake/clutch fluid 

Seems like this coolant hose replacement seems like a task and a half. Might wait for spring to do that. Hate working in the cold.

 

Thank You!

3rd gear grind is because the synchro on that gear is the first to start to wear/fail.  It wont be the clutch.

Filters are largly just filters.  Hard to get upspec paper no matter how hard you try.

Also unless you are going to the race track any half decent brand of brake fluid is fine.  The Sumitomo calipers suck anyway as does the amount of flex in the firewall.  If you want a lol get one of your mates to put his foot on the brake while you watch the fire wall flex, from the engine bay side, obviously otherwise it is just going to be wierd.

Penrite and Ryco are Australian brands so not relevant for you in the US. IIRC you can get Mobil M1 oil filters and Wix are good too.

Since you're crunching 3rd a bit Lightweight shockproof is a good choice.

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