Gearbox shaft clutch r33 GTR problem - HELP!

[Tomak]

Gearbox shaft clutch r33 GTR problem - HELP!

Hi,

I have a big problem with my gerbox.

The problem is exactly with the shaft clutch or the sleeve i dont know....

The shaft clutch is damaged again and i can feel the vibrations inside my car usually on 3rd gear.

The Sleeve i had was not original Japan but custom made from bronze.

Now, i have done only 15 000 km from fixing my gearbox first time.

I have changed the shaft clutch for the new one last time so this shit happend second time already.

The shaft clutch is broken second time already the same way as you can see on the pictures.(pittings on the end)

I was running Spec Clutch all the time Stage 2 and Stage 3+ second time

My gearbox was copletly rebuild on OEM bearings and all other parts the first time this happened.

I took apart this gearbox again today ( second time ) My mechanic said the gerabox is all ok.

So what can be the problem with this shaft clutch? My car is pushing only 450HP and is used only for daily driving. 
I dont even race this car or launch it on 1/4 mile.....and this shit breaks so easily ;/

Has anyone encountered anything like this before? 

By the way can anybody send me the part number for the sleeve shaft clutch for r33 GTR?

I am planning now to put the OEM sleeve and change the clutch for Nismo Coopermix. Maybe this will solve my problem because
i dont have any more ideas what else can be done to fix this problem....

any suggestions?

 

[KiwiRS4T]

There is an auto and a manual spigot bush so make sure you order the right one. Make sure you use some kind of alignment tool so that you don't damage the bush when you bolt up the gearbox if it is not dead central.

[Duncan]

all the rb (and a number of other nissans including r31 skyline and older navaras) use the same spiggot bush and they are readily available from nissan for a couple of $$. But it is highly unlikely your spiggot is the problem; more likely it will be the input shaft (or perhaps crank?) is not straight.

 

I'm not at all familiar with the pull type clutches, but the input shaft pic you have posted looks very different to all the push type clutch shafts I've seen; they have a straight nose all the way to the end while yours has an obvious step.  Is it damaged?

[Watermouse]

If you put a dial indicator on the end of the input shaft spiggot that would tell if its bent. The bearing surface looks chewed out near the end. Also looks like your spiggot bush has been spinning whick is not good

Edited November 12, 2016 by Watermouse
Add detail

[Tomak]

1. Yes the input shaft is Nissan OEM. It was straight to the and without the step and something eat it. 

2.  My engine was also completly rebuild with forged rods and pistons. I bought a new crankshaft N1. The engine runs very good and does not have any vibrations. When i put all together the car was running in the perfect way for 2-3 months. Then this input shaft started to break. So i dont think the problem is from the engine. Dont even scare me....it would be the devastating for me when i spend 6000 USD to fix the engine.

The input shaft looks like melted at the end and has the step now. I am asking why this material is so week and this can happen? it was perfectly straight to the end when i put my gerbox on 15000km ago. it should not happens something like this in sport cars on this level. I am really frustrated. ;/ The worst thing about it is that you cant drive normally on 3rd gear there are big vibrations.

3. What is the different between auto and manual spigot bush? Can i have any part numbers to correct OEM spigot bush? My mechanic said that in this case what happened the spigot bush shoud get damaged not input shaft. That this is weird to him what happened. 

But maybe you are right about gearbox alignment Maybe the spigot bush got damaged when bolting up the gearbox.

[KiwiRS4T]

Where are you? Looks like you need someone with RB knowledge to take a look.

[GTSBoy]

Best guess that the (custom) spigot bush is solid bronze, not sintered, therefore not soaked in oil and offering no lubrication.  And then on top of that, must have been cocked so it wasn't in straight.  Clutch install problem.

[jap4lyf]

are you using the correct procedure to lubricate the spigot bush before installing?

[Tomak]

Poland, Kraków  ..... i am going throught hell with this car here. I have never seen Skyline GTR in Poland in my life before i bought one lol. 

Anybody has the part number for OEM spigot bush please for R33 GTR!?

....as far as i know the spigot bush was not lubricated with anything during last gearbox installation. I dont remember anybody put anything in there. I was watching all procedure.  ;/

 

 

Edited November 12, 2016 by Tomak

[jap4lyf]

34 minutes ago, Tomak said:

Poland, Kraków  ..... i am going throught hell with this car here. I have never seen Skyline GTR in Poland in my life before i bought one lol. 

Anybody has the part number for OEM spigot bush please for R33 GTR!?

....as far as i know the spigot bush was not lubricated with anything during last gearbox installation. I dont remember anybody put anything in there. I was watching all procedure.  ;/

 

 

32202-B950A is the nissan part number for the spigot. before installing you need to press oil through the bearing until it  sort of bubbles through, i have done many nissan clutches and always just used engine oil for the spigot and never had any issues.

Edited November 12, 2016 by jap4lyf

[Tomak]

ok, thanks

[Duncan]

well sorry to increase the bad news, but you also need to replace the gearbox input shaft at a minimum if that has been chewed out because it will destroy a new spiggot bush straight away like that.

It is reasonably easy to bend the input shaft installing the engine if you are not careful, perhaps that is what happened.  But you should also test the crank with a dial indicator on the rear where the flywheel bolts on to make sure that is not the issue.

[Tomak]

I am changing input shaft for new one on Monday. 

Ok i will  test the crank with dial indicator also, thanks!

 

[MrStabby]

15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Best guess that the (custom) spigot bush is solid bronze, not sintered, therefore not soaked in oil and offering no lubrication.  And then on top of that, must have been cocked so it wasn't in straight.  Clutch install problem.

Even so, how does a soft material like bronze chew out a hardened steel material? If there was a lubrication problem i would expect the spigot to be chewed out.

[GTSBoy]

2 hours ago, MrStabby said:

Even so, how does a soft material like bronze chew out a hardened steel material? If there was a lubrication problem i would expect the spigot to be chewed out.

Shit gets hot.  Bronze galls up and balls of it run around in the friction interface.  All sorts of nasty things happen when the things that are happening are not the things that are supposed to be happening.

[Tomak]

Has anybody converted the spigot Bush to needle roller type? There should be needle type and there would be not a problem i guess. Most of the cars as far i know have needle type. Is it possible or not?

 

Edited November 13, 2016 by Tomak

[GTSBoy]

7 hours ago, Tomak said:

Most of the cars as far i know have needle type. Is it possible or not?

 

I would have said the opposite.

[MrStabby]

On 11/14/2016 at 0:37 AM, Tomak said:

Has anybody converted the spigot Bush to needle roller type? There should be needle type and there would be not a problem i guess. Most of the cars as far i know have needle type. Is it possible or not?

 

I recall a story of someone using an aftermarket needle roller spigot in an RB, only to have it fail. So, if you do try one make sure you get a reputable brand, and consider it a test. Since you're having trouble i'd stick to the known good OEM option rather than adding another variable to a setup with issues.

[Duncan]

+1. There's nothing wrong with the stock setup, billions of people run them making gigawatts of power.  the problem is elsewhere in your driveline, probably just a bent input shaft during installation