Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

popped fuse, major eletrical problem

hey people REALLY need help on this one.

so I have a 1996 GTS-T R33 series 2

 put my car in to have some work done as follows.

ECU,Injectors,boost controller and boost gauge.

all very standard things to upgrade.

it was on the dyno, didn't even get to any major pulls for power, just started to get the car running on the base tune.

out of nowhere car decides to shut down. ok popped fuse replace it now car won't start.... 

my auto elec ripped the whole car apart tested everything relays, looms more fuses, fuel pump etc.

follows the short to the dash cluster just as he starts taking the dash out, short vanishes???

 been four days and still can not locate problem. head mechanic said this has been a head F%#@ has never come across this problem before..

just wondering if anyone has had similar problems or if anyone can think of what if could be cause it just doesn't make sense. 

any information would be appreciated cheers.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467841-popped-fuse-major-eletrical-problem/
Share on other sites

Also any wires running close the a bit of sharp metal or plastic behind the dash that they may have cut threw and exposed the wire,
Has he tested all critical stuff for the car to not run, eg fuel pump powering up, fuel pressure at the rail, power to the ecu,power to coils, power to injectors injector pulse,coils firing, cas signal scopes at ecu and at cas
Finally what fuse was it blowing as that might give.more insite into the problem.

I spoke to him yesterday and to the best of my knowledge he has tested literally everything he could think of from major components to something as little as the wiring in my aftermarket head deck, Including all work he has carried out. However he did not tell me which fuse had blown.. car still won't start which is why they are so baffled at what's going wrong.

That's why my guess was an exposed wire of some sort within the dash cluster. But apart from that they don't really have much else to go off. He told me that he has never come across this kind of thing before with such simple upgrades.

Just because upgrades where done doesn't mean there the cause of the problem yet always good to check over them
The reason it's important what fuse blew. Say it's an ecu fuse and it had the wrong rating in it, it may have damaged the ecu itself before blowing or what other circuits it's on
Yet as for the car not running, I think it's he's lost he needs to take a step back and pretend it's a car that's just come in not running.
First go over the basics
Does it have fuel
Does it have fuel pressure
Does it have compression
Are the plugs in good Condition and not fouled.
Removing timing case upper cover and ensure cam timing still correct
Get an ecu pinout and ensure ecu has power and earth everywhere it should. Including when cranking the motor
Check power to critical circuits,cas injectors and coils and afm, check injectors pulse and coils fire
Check your getting a good signal from the cas,
Check ecu data to ensure it knows the engine is cranking and the afm signals are reasonable

Check each one of them individually as if the car doesn't run it will show up as a problem there.
When you work out where the problem is then you can work out how to fix it.

I'm a mechanic and auto elec by trade and the amount of time I've wasted by skipping something small that I thought couldn't be a problem only to have it stuff me over later is ridiculous, that's why sometimes you need to take a step back from the issue and start over.
Old saying is can't see the forest for the trees.

Yea that's all very good points I'll give him a ring and put in some pointers without sounding rude and as if I'm telling him to do his job haha. Appreciate your input mate I'll post up on here again when I find out what the problem was and if what you said helped point it out.

  • 2 weeks later...

got my car back today.... turns out that problem was o2 sensor and what long story short it fried the o2 circuit in my ECU!! of all things. so now thats all fixed. my car is surging on fuel and I can't turn a corner any faster than 20KM/H without the car cutting out then as soon as I get back into a straight line give it 2 seconds BAMB car turns into a skyline again?? any thoughts?

Edited by Smally514

oh yea and did I mention that it broke down literally 15 minutes after picking it up was stuck on centre lane at traffic lights for about 10 minutes and car wouldn't start hahahah talk about buying a Lemmon I hit the jackpot :D. 

 

yea I'm putting it back in on Monday.. annoying thing is it wasn't doing any of this when they test drove it, all of a sudden the owner gets the car back and bamb more problems more money. I am thinking its time for surge tank also.

Haha you haven't had the best run with that car. Time for a stagea ;) 

I haven't heard of 33's needing a surge tank. You would have gotten a new fuel pump at the time of getting the other gear, so the sock may need aligning? or a possible random voltage drop? or they've f**ked the wiring while trying to wire in the link... Can't see an o2 failing and taking out the ecu like that. That's just odd.

 

 

oh yea and did I mention that it broke down literally 15 minutes after picking it up was stuck on centre lane at traffic lights for about 10 minutes and car wouldn't start hahahah talk about buying a Lemmon I hit the jackpot :D. 

 

yea I'm putting it back in on Monday.. annoying thing is it wasn't doing any of this when they test drove it, all of a sudden the owner gets the car back and bamb more problems more money. I am thinking its time for surge tank also.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

WOW just a small update. Problems nearly over corner cutting problem was none other then a tricky fuel pump relay replaced it and it's pearling. Now I just need to sort out a small over boosting issue. Apart from that my car is a little weapon now. Am very happy :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.
    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
×
×
  • Create New...