Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting a roadworthy in Vic

r32GTSTI6

By r32GTSTI6,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

r32GTSTI6 Enthusiast

r32GTSTI6

Posted
Posted (edited)

Getting a roadworthy in Vic

Hey guys Im trying to get my 1990 r32 gtst ready for a roadworthy and Im wondering what else I need to do to make sure it passes. I've already fixed pretty much everything myself but since im just a kid with no mechanical training theres still some stuff I dont know how to fix. Can I get a roadworthy with:

  • All aircondition stuff doesnt work as the headunit thing for the AC doesnt work at all
  • Heater doesnt work (just wondering if I need a demister)
  • Horn doesnt work
  • Headlights and highbeams dont work
  • Has a pod filter
  • 3rd gear completely worn off
  • sometimes wont go into reverse

I will probably fix the headlights and horn once I my multimeter finally gets here.

Edited by r32GTSTI6
forgot something
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467870-getting-a-roadworthy-in-vic/
Share on other sites
r32GTSTI6 Enthusiast

r32GTSTI6

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My problems now are that: horn is all wired up and I replaced all the fuses yet no sound from the horn even though I can physically see the relay clicking. New horn? Could someone tell me where the horn is so I can replace it? Second is for some reason turning on the headlights makes the highbeams go on as well? Is that okay for roadworthy? And how can I get the front demister to work again when the entire ac unit thing doesnt even turn on and the a/c pump thing doesnt work? Thanks for any help

r32GTSTI6 Enthusiast

r32GTSTI6

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 minutes ago, Downforce said:

The horns are in front of the radiator. Attached to the bonnet locking mechanism.

found the problem. Previous owner has PULLED THE f**kING HORN OFF.  God damnit i feel like half my problems are due to the previous owner messing with everything. Anyway thanks for the help.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • soviet_merlin
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • soviet_merlin
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT Central Locking Pains

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Can't see that being a thing.
×
×
  • Create New...