Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch bite point suddenly changed.


Recommended Posts

Clutch bite point suddenly changed.

Hey Guys and Girls.

So i drove my car home from work and was working perfectly fine. got in the car a couple hours later to go for a drive, and all of a sudden the clutch bite had gone to the very bottom of the pedal. with the clutch fully pressed it if i left my foot out what feels about 1-2 cm the clutch is biting.

i checked were the pedal is on the push rod and it is as far back as possible. The master cylinder looks full.

any ideas on what it could be ??  is my clutch screwed ?? or the something wrong with the master cylinder ?  since I've owned the car if you sit in neutral with the clutch pedal out there is a slight spinning noise from the gearbox but goes away when the pedal is pressed in, not sure if that has something to do with it.

 

Cheers in advance :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Kinks said:

bite point change means clutch pivot bolt may have failed.  common thing.  search for it

slight noise with clutch out is normal

 

If the clutch pivot bolt failed would i lose the clutch 100% ?? because i can still just change gears.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clutch diagnostics 101.

If hydraulic failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in much smaller action of slave rod than expected.  Unable to tell you which end of the hydraulics is failed across the internet.

If pivot ball failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in satisfactory extension of slave rod, however the gubbins inside the bellhousing won't wangle the action as much as it should.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Clutch diagnostics 101.

If hydraulic failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in much smaller action of slave rod than expected.  Unable to tell you which end of the hydraulics is failed across the internet.

If pivot ball failure, then pushing pedal 100% will result in satisfactory extension of slave rod, however the gubbins inside the bellhousing won't wangle the action as much as it should.

makes sense, i'll get under the car tomorrow and have a look.

how much travel should there be with the slave rod ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got under the car to have a look at the gearbox to see how much the slave cylinder is moving the when the clutch is pressed in.

here is a video off it.

Thinking the problem might be inside the box, as the slave cylinder seems to be moving enough.

but when taking the slave cylinder off, was able to move the end of the fork back towards the rear of the car about a couple of cm's. so where it is sitting at the start of the video the rod from the slave cylinder could still be pressed back into the slave cylinder more.

 

should the slave cylinder be compressed back into it self more or ??

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...