Yellow Jackets Ignitor Module and resistance test results

[phatmonk]

Yellow Jackets Ignitor Module and resistance test results

 

Hi All,

Keeping this short-ish, I'm chasing a misfire when on boost.

Replaced the plugs.  Interesting found BCPR7ES-11 in there from the last mechanic, no big deal.  Anyhow, replaced with BCPR6ES-11.

The air box has been out/in recently, Will check it's gone back on properly tomorrow with some light.  Maybe it is un-metered air.  I hope it's not the AFMs, been through 4 sets...

But, I have a feeling it is the 20+ year old coil packs and/or ignitor module.  Found this (awesome!) video on how to test the ignitor module, again I'll give it a crack tomorrow.

So, here are a few questions:
- Anyone tested their ignitor module like this before and care to share results?  Think, a yard stick besides what is in the video.
- Anyone using Yellow Jackets ignitor modules?  Keen on comments for the R32/33 GTR unit, but I'll take anything.  What I've noticed about their coil packs, asides from amazing service (Performance Wise) replacing failed units, it is hit and miss.  When it is hit, they are good.  I can't find anything about the ignitor packs to make my mind up.
- Comments on refurb OEM units?  See eBay link

Pricing up the ignitor pack.  SuperCheap - $1600+ (OMG!).  Kudos - about $600.  Refurb - $400.  Yellow Jackets - $200.

Lastly, I'm a massive lurker here.  Heaps of thanks for the great info here.

Cheers!

 

 

 

[GTSBoy]

The ignitor modules really are just 6 transistors, so it shouldn't be hard to make an aftermarket equivalent OR refurbish an OEM one.  The thing I would avoid though is anything that comes from a source (such as Yellow Jackets) that is known to have a patchy record.  It is just too easy to make these electronic thingos with shit quality Chinese made components when for 30c more you could make them with good quality Chinese made components and for another 50c you could make them with top quality Jap components.

[phatmonk]

Not sure what happened with the double post... anyhow, here are the results.

Testing as per the above, pins (cylinders) 1 to 6 tested at 500 ohms +/- 10 ohms per pin.  What raised an eye brown, the video tested at 8 Mohms.  The two units are waaayyyy different but who knows which one is right.  It would be good for some more results.

Testing in reverse. each pin read open - sweet.

Here is where things start getting interesting.  Quoting the electronics buff who's multimeters we used, we were testing the "forward junction voltage on the base emitter" - this isn't covered in the above video and honestly, nfi, but it sounds good.   Pins 1 to 5 read 1.2v.  Pin 6 read 0.6v.  Testing across three multimeters and a transistor reader, this was consistent.  Then, all of a sudden, all pins started reading 0.7v.

So, something is wrong here and I ordered a refub unit.

 

[Scott Black]

I used a yellow jacket r33 s1 igniter on the rb25 in my old 180sx for 2 years at a bit over 200rwkw getting trashed hard every time it was used never gave me an issue. Still got it in my garage actually

[phatmonk]

@Scott Black if you have some time, knowing the resistance across the pins would be awesome?

[phatmonk]

Update.

Went looking for un-metered air, found oil from the K&N panel filter in airbox.  A substantial quantity.  Pulled the airbox, cleaned the AFMs and had the filter on paper towel overnight.  Took it for a drive, it is still missing (more like popping, at a guess it is unburnt fuel) under boost.  Might just replace with a paper filter.

Replaced the plugs with a set of BCPR6ES, no -11, and even better but still missing.

Did a visual inspection of the CAS and timing.  Besides missing a bolt on the bottom of the CAS, it looks out.  Don't have a timing light, so can't do an actual reading.  Could someone chime in?

[89CAL]

You can't assume its out because it 'looks out'

Get a timing light and plug lead and check it properly. There is something you have to unplug to check it so the timing doesn't jump around. From memory its the TPS plug

[phatmonk]

True @89CAL, can't tell the timing without actually checking it.  I just found it odd that it's waaaay off the 20 degree mark... but hey, it's running fine.

I'll need to put a few more KMs on it, but I think the misfire is gone.  Swapped the K&N panel filter with the old filter and all the problems just went away.  Swapped the old filter with a new one and so far so good.

Air, fuel or spark.  Back to basics hey.

[89CAL]

I think mine was adjusted nearly all the way one way with my old engine. Timing was fine. Looked similar to yours actually

[STATUS]

Yellow Jackets are junk, dont waste your money.. i dyno engines all day every day and in the short time (5+years) yellow jackets have been around they account for more ignition troubles on the dyno than all the others combined..

[GH05T]

they really are, for the tiny extra price for SF which are tried and tested and dont come with excuses and arguments, why wouldn't you.

[GTSBoy]

Yes, agreed, but remember that this thread isn't about the coilpacks.

[89CAL]

I was actually curious about the YJ ignitor. Im not aware of any other after market ignitor?

[STATUS]

On 12/9/2016 at 7:36 PM, 89CAL said:

I was actually curious about the YJ ignitor. Im not aware of any other after market ignitor?

well based on the quality of the other products they produce why would the ignitor be any different?