Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is a height increase likely to be an issue? I never noticed much of a difference with mine. I think I even held them up back to back with stock and couldnt really see a difference. If they are harder there may be a little less 'squish' with the weight of the engine but nothing crazy I would imagine.

The top of my engine is quite low because of the front facing plenum but if it helps:

14268147293_78f04134c4_h.jpg

 

 

20131205_194100_zps213145be.jpg

Edited by 89CAL
3 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Nismo Engine Mount Height Increase?

What sort of height increase are we talking in an R34 GT-R and what other options are there that don't increase the height? 

FWIW my R34 GT-T Nismo mounts didn't seem to make any difference to where the engine is sitting.

I would have thought there might be a couple of mm difference in just the OEM mounts being squished & worn out over 15+ years...?

Issue would stem from what potentially happens with intake pipes as I replaced the standard suction pipes with kts suction pipes and have a jsai pod enclosure which barely clears the z tune style bonnet.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...