Rb20det stupid noise

[R32austian]

Rb20det stupid noise

Hey guys , I own made nissans, s13 sr20det, Datsun 510 sr20det , s13 vh45de awesome build . And now a r32 Gtst 4 door . I lived in USA and shipped it to Austria in Europe . 

 

Now recently i developed this noise and I can't seem to figure it out . 

I changed the oil and same issue , I did the check with a screwdriver to see if there is movement and no movement found, I know it's coming out of #6 area but I can't seem to figure it out . Please any input would help . I'm the only registered skylinein my country . Noise seems to go away when I unplug coil #6 I tried swapping out the coils around but still same noise happens between 2,000  - 2,500 only 

 

here is a video . 

 

 

[R32austian]

Also it from number six so if I disconnect the coil the noise is gone and if I connect it back it comes again 

[Sinista32]

What's the compression readings?

Guess - Big end bearing in #6?

[R32austian]

Yeah I need order a tool to check the compression or ask around a buddy if they got one. It's not common here to work on your own car , everyone just goes to the mechanic. That's why everyone just has a basic car or a car with just wheels or some sort of new Audi or BMW or vw chipped . I'm the only registered skyline Gtst and there are 3 other Gtr here but own by a dealer that sells them and for him to just look at my car he asking €600 up front .  It's a steal 

[Sinista32]

When you unplug the coil there is no spark, therefore no combustion in cylinder 6, however the crank still turns so the rod/piston still goes up and down (in a normal situation).

When there is spark/ignition i.e. combustion you get the "clack clack clack" . That's why I think it's serious and maybe the big end bearing.

I have heard the same/similar noise twice with my GTR and both times it was the bearing

Good luck Sammy

[KiwiRS4T]

If you were in a position to pick up another engine that might be your best bet. If you have another car to get around in you could take the time to pull your motor out and fix it.

But borrow a compression gauge first and see if your motor is sick. Does it smoke and use oil?

[R32austian]

4 hours ago, Sinista32 said:

When you unplug the coil there is no spark, therefore no combustion in cylinder 6, however the crank still turns so the rod/piston still goes up and down (in a normal situation).

When there is spark/ignition i.e. combustion you get the "clack clack clack" . That's why I think it's serious and maybe the big end bearing.

I have heard the same/similar noise twice with my GTR and both times it was the bearing

Good luck Sammy

My car does burn oil so either way it was needing a rebuild , is this a problem that I can just fix with replacing all the parts with new ones or do I just need a different motor ? I just would hate to have to buy another old Rb20det to rebuild it also ! 

[R32austian]

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you were in a position to pick up another engine that might be your best bet. If you have another car to get around in you could take the time to pull your motor out and fix it.

But borrow a compression gauge first and see if your motor is sick. Does it smoke and use oil?

Yeah it's probably best to fix it up , unfortunately the nearest place I can get swaps is in Netherlands that i know of , and i spoke to them yesterday and they said all they can acquire is rb25det . I have to research more and see who else around me sells motors from jdm cars arounds . And it's just another risk buying a 20 plus year old motor . I want to fix it because my motor burn oil so either way it needed a rebuild just wanted to know if I could fix the click click noise with new parts or did I just ruin my block 

[Ed.williams5]

If you're burning oil you'd probably be better off buying a used long block and rebuilding it then just running yours till it blows.

Burning oil means pistons rings are on their way out...which you should (really need to) rehone the block and head to do. I personally wouldn't see the point in throwing new bearings into a motor that is going to need to be apart not too far down the line

[KiwiRS4T]

If you are not in a rush,  pull your engine out and strip it down and measure it. If it doesn't need a rebore then you can just do rings and bearings etc.

If it does need machining then you are looking at a rebore, new pistons etc. At this point you need to decide what ambitions you have for the car - and replacing with an RB25DET (preferably a Neo) would be the way to go. But if you want to limit your investment then fixing up the current motor will probably work out cheaper and you will have some confidence that it will last a while.

[R32austian]

4 hours ago, Ed.williams5 said:

If you're burning oil you'd probably be better off buying a used long block and rebuilding it then just running yours till it blows.

Burning oil means pistons rings are on their way out...which you should (really need to) rehone the block and head to do. I personally wouldn't see the point in throwing new bearings into a motor that is going to need to be apart not too far down the line

That's a good idea , so is it safe to say just run my car till the knock gets really bad and just buy a used bottom end and rebuild it till my end just gives up ? I found a used bottom end for €160 in UK so I can buy it now and start to rebuild it till my shit gives up . Would any of you recommend that idea ? Will it cause any damage to my head or anything else ? That way I could do this with a bit of more time to gather all the parts from over seas or other countries to rebuild it . 

[R32austian]

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you are not in a rush,  pull your engine out and strip it down and measure it. If it doesn't need a rebore then you can just do rings and bearings etc.

If it does need machining then you are looking at a rebore, new pistons etc. At this point you need to decide what ambitions you have for the car - and replacing with an RB25DET (preferably a Neo) would be the way to go. But if you want to limit your investment then fixing up the current motor will probably work out cheaper and you will have some confidence that it will last a while.

I would love to do a rb25det swap but the rules here are so strict, I can't even put a aftermarket air filter without going to a certified mechanic and letting him look at it and do some tests and then approve and  pay him a fee and get a certificate that he approved and then that it to my insurance and they put it on my title . Bunch of bs if you ask me , lol unless I just swapped it and cross my fingers they won't find out when I go to my yearly inspection which I doubt they would find out because they have no idea what car this is but if they were to find out I would be f**ked on paying fines and making me swap it out to the original motor . Unless I grind the block number out and stamped Rb20det on it then I think they wouldn't have a clue . Plus what extra work would I have to do to put a rb25det in my car ? Could I use my trans and clutch ? I forgot to mentioned that I have a twin disc clutch and a old school blitz standalone with 6 secondary injectors and a bigger garret turbo with external waste gate and fmic and cams ( don't remember what cams ) digital boost controller , oil cooler and ps cooler , driftworks hicas delete kit and BC br coilovers , and I use 98 octane fuel only . Last time I dyno my car in USA Florida I did 367 to the wheel at 18 psi and 312 to the wheel at 10 psi 

[R32austian]

Guys is this a good option? Or should I just buy a stock bottom end ? 

 

http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/nissan-skyline-rb23-stroker-forged-rb20det-engine/

[R_34]

Good I don't know, I would tear it apart and inspect it anyway, if you buy a stock bottom end will result in the same thing. Living in europe too I thought buying it for a time but a 25 will always be better and cheaper on the long term.

Do they really check the engine number in your country ? An RB25 is pretty stealthy if you don't know the car.

Yes your trans and clutch will bolt right away to the RB25. You just need an RB25 with its harness and ECU. It would be better to find a S1 RB25 as it use the same maf as your RB20.

 

And no I wouldn't run your rb20 as it is, you'll just ruin the cranck and maybe the rod and block if the rod finally look for a way out of its misery through the block.

[KiwiRS4T]

9 hours ago, R32austian said:

Guys is this a good option? Or should I just buy a stock bottom end ? 

 

http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/nissan-skyline-rb23-stroker-forged-rb20det-engine/

That looks like a good option. Should work well with the bolt ons you have. I would still take the sump off and check the bottom end before fitting.

[KiwiRS4T]

9 hours ago, R32austian said:

Guys is this a good option? Or should I just buy a stock bottom end ? 

 

http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/nissan-skyline-rb23-stroker-forged-rb20det-engine/

That looks like a good option. Should work well with the bolt ons you have. I would still take the sump off and check the bottom end before fitting.

[R32austian]

Just want to start by saying thanks to all of you guys for the input , very helpful !!! Here is a update with my r32 

 

 

 

im in search for a Rb20det complete block . If you know where I can possibly get one please direct me to it , here in Austria it's easier finding gold or diamonds in the mountains than finding anything skyline related lol . 

 

That rb23 block got sold already so that's not a option anymore ..... sucks and getting a used rb25det and then using it is so risky for me because I don't know how dependable it could be maybe I will need to do a rebuild on it and that's more money I have to spend so I rather just rebuild my more with a knowing Rb20det block that has no knock and rebuilding everything.

 

let me know where to get a block please 

[R_34]

UK and Irland should be the main sources for this. You may still can use your present block and cranck if you stop running it.

Try driftworks, SXOC or gtr.co.uk forums for example. Donedeal.ie or ebay may be viable source too I think.