Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTR suspension settings?

Has anyone got the factory specs for comparison? 

Also what would be recommended for a street car that's only driven occasionally. 

Has coilovers, (BC ER whichare quite firm) looks like subframe collars and a rear sway bar, 275 rubber. 110mm at the lowest point (mid muffler), Upper arms look stock from a quick glance. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467944-r34-gtr-suspension-settings/
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, ActionDan said:

I was looking at going MCA as I know BC are just cheap coilovers but these look to be in very good condition and "work" for now. 

I do suggest doing research on both brands. I think you'll find that the components from both brands come from the same factory overseas.

There are some variances between the two brands though. 

16 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Care to share more on this? That's a pretty big claim, though to be fair, parts coming from the same factory means nothing in terms of what specs those parts are created with. 

I'm just saying they're essentially the same coilover using the same components, but are obviously built to different specs depending on the kit choice. Custom modifications can be made from both brands.

That's a starting point, which I had already found after posting the thread. 

I'm now more interested in suggested settings for capable street car. 

All my suspension work has been on the Silvia, different chassis suspension style. 

I'm just saying they're essentially the same coilover using the same components, but are obviously built to different specs depending on the kit choice. Custom modifications can be made from both brands.


I would like some evidence of this?

Comparing the 2, they are of completely different construction....
14 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Yeah found that, only answers one part of my question.

Below is my set up based loosely on suggestions from SK. The Stagea has basically the same set up as GTR. ( For track only I change the front camber to neg 3deg which works great but is no good on the road)

Nissan Stagea RS4T

     
       
Front      
       
    Before Target
       
Caster Left   positive 6 degrees
       
  Right   positive 5.75 degrees
       
Camber Left   1.5 degree negative
       
  Right   1.5 degree negative
       
Toe in Left   1mm toe out
       
  Right   1mm toe out
       
Rear      
       
Camber Left   Negative 2.0 degrees
       
  Right   Negative 2.0 degrees
       
Toe in Left   0-1mm
       
  Right   0-1mm
1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Thanks, that's about what I was expecting with the exception of more neg rear camber than front? 

Yep for street use (on my wagon) - you may want to progressively increase it from zero to see what's best for you.

3 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Thanks, that's about what I was expecting with the exception of more neg rear camber than front? 

Was gonna ask the same question as I thought it was odd. I generally only run between 1-1.5 on the rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope your all having a mean Xmas! If anyone happens to know any trick to using the insanely complex climate control system, I cannot get it to not be on dual zone no matter how many times I deselect it (will say it's not but both vents blow different temps). Also one side is always hot, one always cold 🤷
    • I'd be looking at the mentioned EFR kit, room to turn it up if decide on e85 (which we know you will) and be super responsive and fun on the street. OR https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/?srsltid=AfmBOorrJa2S76JR5ekXprxBOtU44a1UProbe64YaiVi9zTVp1Lj814w And add whooshy noise for extra fun C5 corvette prices are coming down locally here and a mate has a manual one and is a heap of fun on the street and track.
    • I have an Elite 2500, honestly most of this has been a lot of smaller tasks chasing little details and a whole lot of life getting in the way of bigger projects. I don't mind too much looking at a spectrograph vs having audio knock ears. 
    • Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P
×
×
  • Create New...