Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can replace it with one of these, goes from master to slave cylinder http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-CLUTCH-Line-kit-NISSAN-Skyline-R32-GTS-T-GTST-Full-Length-/271611272122?hash=item3f3d4b1bba:g:5OwAAOSwnDZUG52L Pm Dose Pipe Sutututu (johnny), he can probably do a better price. The other options are brand new oem from Nissan, wil most likely need to be ordered or second hand oem from a wrecker like skyline spares in Sydney or Osaka imports in Melbourne. Where are you located by the way? As far as bleeding at every joint, it means where the hose screws into the master cylinder, you need to loosen it 1/2 to 1 turn and bleed the master cylinder from there, tighten the fitting fully and move on to the next join and repeat and finally bleed at the nipple. Does that make sense to you? You may be able to get away with just bleeding from the nipple you may not.

3 hours ago, admS15 said:

You can replace it with one of these, goes from master to slave cylinder http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-CLUTCH-Line-kit-NISSAN-Skyline-R32-GTS-T-GTST-Full-Length-/271611272122?hash=item3f3d4b1bba:g:5OwAAOSwnDZUG52L Pm Dose Pipe Sutututu (johnny), he can probably do a better price. The other options are brand new oem from Nissan, wil most likely need to be ordered or second hand oem from a wrecker like skyline spares in Sydney or Osaka imports in Melbourne. Where are you located by the way? As far as bleeding at every joint, it means where the hose screws into the master cylinder, you need to loosen it 1/2 to 1 turn and bleed the master cylinder from there, tighten the fitting fully and move on to the next join and repeat and finally bleed at the nipple. Does that make sense to you? You may be able to get away with just bleeding from the nipple you may not.

Yeah I will definitely get that one in the future problem is I dont have time to wait for delivery as I already bought an unregistered vehicle permit so I only have a limited time to get a RWC. Im located south east melbourne. 

Image result for r32 gtst clutch master cylinder

So I bleed the master from the nipple on the right or the fitting under the reservoir?

3 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Bleed both, cant hurt. Try Osaka imports in knox for a used clutch line or find a local hel distributor.

Yeah im gonna take it to a local clutch place and hope they can give me a new line at least for a temporary fix then imma get the RWC and switch everything to braided

19 hours ago, Ed.williams5 said:

Your best bet is go and have stainless line made up.long enough to go from clunch master down to slave then just have to worry about one.

This? : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271611272122?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Will this mean I can completely bypass the dampener as well and remove all the metal lines? 

52 minutes ago, r32GTSTI6 said:

This? : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271611272122?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Will this mean I can completely bypass the dampener as well and remove all the metal lines? 

Yes

31 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Yes

Thank god. I the little screw thing that goes in the dampener is leaking now and the nut is completely rounded, was seriously about to just give up

57 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

No you can rip it out

Yeah thanks guys in this thread, i bled the clutch and the brakes as well and now everything running even better than before so THANKS :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...