Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can replace it with one of these, goes from master to slave cylinder http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-CLUTCH-Line-kit-NISSAN-Skyline-R32-GTS-T-GTST-Full-Length-/271611272122?hash=item3f3d4b1bba:g:5OwAAOSwnDZUG52L Pm Dose Pipe Sutututu (johnny), he can probably do a better price. The other options are brand new oem from Nissan, wil most likely need to be ordered or second hand oem from a wrecker like skyline spares in Sydney or Osaka imports in Melbourne. Where are you located by the way? As far as bleeding at every joint, it means where the hose screws into the master cylinder, you need to loosen it 1/2 to 1 turn and bleed the master cylinder from there, tighten the fitting fully and move on to the next join and repeat and finally bleed at the nipple. Does that make sense to you? You may be able to get away with just bleeding from the nipple you may not.

3 hours ago, admS15 said:

You can replace it with one of these, goes from master to slave cylinder http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-CLUTCH-Line-kit-NISSAN-Skyline-R32-GTS-T-GTST-Full-Length-/271611272122?hash=item3f3d4b1bba:g:5OwAAOSwnDZUG52L Pm Dose Pipe Sutututu (johnny), he can probably do a better price. The other options are brand new oem from Nissan, wil most likely need to be ordered or second hand oem from a wrecker like skyline spares in Sydney or Osaka imports in Melbourne. Where are you located by the way? As far as bleeding at every joint, it means where the hose screws into the master cylinder, you need to loosen it 1/2 to 1 turn and bleed the master cylinder from there, tighten the fitting fully and move on to the next join and repeat and finally bleed at the nipple. Does that make sense to you? You may be able to get away with just bleeding from the nipple you may not.

Yeah I will definitely get that one in the future problem is I dont have time to wait for delivery as I already bought an unregistered vehicle permit so I only have a limited time to get a RWC. Im located south east melbourne. 

Image result for r32 gtst clutch master cylinder

So I bleed the master from the nipple on the right or the fitting under the reservoir?

3 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Bleed both, cant hurt. Try Osaka imports in knox for a used clutch line or find a local hel distributor.

Yeah im gonna take it to a local clutch place and hope they can give me a new line at least for a temporary fix then imma get the RWC and switch everything to braided

19 hours ago, Ed.williams5 said:

Your best bet is go and have stainless line made up.long enough to go from clunch master down to slave then just have to worry about one.

This? : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271611272122?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Will this mean I can completely bypass the dampener as well and remove all the metal lines? 

52 minutes ago, r32GTSTI6 said:

This? : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271611272122?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Will this mean I can completely bypass the dampener as well and remove all the metal lines? 

Yes

31 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Yes

Thank god. I the little screw thing that goes in the dampener is leaking now and the nut is completely rounded, was seriously about to just give up

57 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

No you can rip it out

Yeah thanks guys in this thread, i bled the clutch and the brakes as well and now everything running even better than before so THANKS :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...