Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dose Pipe Needs a Build Thread - Now He Has for Project Le Siet Bok

Oh Harros,

Might as well start a build thread for v3.0 of my car... yep 'le siet bok' has been through 3 revisions and now v3.0 should be more so track orientated than ever. This post is more so a comparison of when I bought the car and all of it's Autosalon features and now it's ended up now to this present day with the blown turbo. So here goes:

 

How I bought the shit box (still is a shit box now)

Like holy shit, who the heck styled the car? a 3 year old kid? anyhow the car also came with a massive bogan southern cross sticker on the back which was hastily removed within 2 hours of owning the car. Had wanky 19" wheels with tyres fit for a Honda, that also was deleted.

SKY2.jpg

SKY1.jpg

 

What I did in about 2 months of owning the car (because it was so embarrassing to drive)

  • Restored Stock Blow off Valve with custom mod
  • Restored Stock Air Box
  • Restored Stock Door Trims with Speaker Grills
  • Restored Parcel Tray
  • Restored Factory Vacuum Hoses
  • Restored Slimline Charcoal Canister
  • Restored A/C Condenser Fan
  • Restored Factory Wiper Blades
  • Deleted Southern Cross Sticker
  • Deleted Unknown workshop stickers
  • Deleted GReddy Turbo Timer
  • Deleted Autometer Cobalt Boost Gauge
  • Deleted Turbosmart Dual Stage Electronic Boost Controller
  • Replaced Wheels with factory R33 GT-R 17×9” wheels
  • Replaced Clutch with NPC 10” Carbotic Button Clutch
  • Replaced Gearbox front and rear seals
  • Replaced ABS Unit
  • Upgraded Rear Anti-roll bar with 27mm R33 GT-R item
  • Upgraded Gear Knob with Nismo Leather item
  • Upgraded Front Pipe with RS*R 3.75” inch item
  • Upgraded Cat Back Exhaust with HKS Super Dragger 3.5” to 3.75” item
  • Upgraded Castor Rods with Whiteline Bushing Castor Rods

At that point the car became "drivable" and not giving me a sads each time.. then I took it "testing" at one of the SAU Texi days.

002.jpgpost-22311-0-78902000-1397535603.jpgpost-22311-0-28167700-1397535576.jpgpost-22311-0-47844500-1397535587.jpg

 

What's been done since all that

  • Adaptronic 440 Select ECU
  • Zeitronix ECA Ethanol Kit
  • Innovate MTX-L Wideband & Boost Gauge
  • Blitz Dual SBC EBC (best thing everrrrrr)
  • Engine Guardian Water, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure Gauge
  • Split Fire Coil Packs
  • Hypergear SS2, Externally Gate with the CBB centre
  • Havoc Modified stock manifold
  • Turbosmart 45mm Hypergate
  • Full Custom 3.5" Turbo back to Axle back (still runs a cat, kinda-ish.. not really)
  • Plazmaman Swept Back Intercooler Piping
  • Mocal Oil Cooler with GReddy GREX Sandwich/Thermo Plate
  • PWR 43mm Triple Core Radiator
  • Siemens DEKA V 875cc Top Feed E85 FI
  • Turbosmart FPR 1200
  • Radium XR Fuel Damper
  • Walbro 460L Fuel Pump
  • ARP non 2000 Head Studs
  • MCA X-R Coilovers with 10kg Front and 7kg Rear Springs
  • Whiteline 24mm ARB Front and Rear
  • Hardrace Front Caster Rods, Rear Camber Arms
  • Hardrace Subframe Bushing
  • TAS Motorsports HICAS Eliminator Kit
  • 350Z Brembo Calipers Up front (OEM Rears)
  • Intima Type-D Pads all round

And yes, makes good power and also been using it pretty well as per the video lol

(How different does the engine bay look compared to when I first bought the flipping thing)

13048057_1738797173044193_6675237855656849003_o.jpg

12308182_1168558859839908_9030969537197594104_o.thumb.jpg.9e9abbc07618896cfaf55d637d972d4a.jpg13254873_1752196888370888_1071539108639925081_o.thumb.jpg.1f31e653945e2daa8595dd41e87ba95b.jpg13254770_1751044661819444_8060753381974359462_o.jpg14542359_1394687860560339_6692040288806840947_o.jpg10257282_1516531548604091_6351355327761826654_o.thumb.jpg.c31c6fffd85ccf1215369751900c376a.jpg.pagespeed.ce.k7K02qBTZz.jpg12087679_1150282515000876_3440442862839589630_o.thumb.jpg.7fdee44953283fd9c4398281ac44f7ec.jpg.pagespeed.ce.joSK5TgStL.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5
6 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Was going to suggest a twin scroll housing, proper twin scroll manifold, twin gates. May as well yolo and go EFR emoji43.png

Sound familiar. LOL.

wow, I wonder what wanker keeps on saying that? hahahaha

  • Like 2

I'm a bit drunk atm, but I'll write up a pretty decent response soon :)

At the end of the day, it's still a shit box and it's slow.

Would love an Evo 8/9 if someone wants to downgrade to a floating barge with cash their way but no one is that idiotic so the crazy person that I am is throwing more money at it to get the lap times.

  • Like 1

What worked

  • MCA X-Series Coilovers in 10/7 although Josh advised they were too stiff but I like it how it is
  • Dropping the stiffness of the ARBs - car is now less twitchy
  • Adding more caster to the front, it's now at 9 degrees
  • Installing harden rubber subframe bushes (next time, I'm taking it to a shop, fuuark the DIY)
  • Installing a proper HICAS eliminator kit
  • 350Z Brembo Calipers
  • 1.8bar through the motor worked great, 372kW and no boom.
  • Moving the gate from the rear housing onto the manifold, less back pressure, less shit glowing = 372kW
    • Yes, it was with a new turbo, but it had exactly the same SS2 compressor
  • Moving from a journal bearing to a ceramic ball bearing CHRA
    • same "response" BUT... night/day difference with transient response.. on/off throttle felt nearly like a NA
  • Installing a PWR Radiator... dayammm.. 35+ degree day.. water temp was in check ALL DAY!

01.jpg

02.jpg

Rad 02.jpg

20160402_155623.jpg

DSC_2233.JPG

 

What didn't work

  • Running stupid thick ARBs with soft as shit springs and Bilsteins, car pitched too much and threw the weight towards the front and turned a perfectly good turn into a drift
    • I was into the whole soft springs, stiff ARBs.. yeah it's great for street use but completely useless on the track
    • Snapped about 3x sets of ARB link brackets when I either went on a ripple strip OR off the track because of the ARBs trying to attenuate the shock movement
  • HICAS Lock bar, completely useless when your hicas ball joints are cooked
  • Running an external gate off the rear housing, thought it was a good idea - nope.. on the dyno the collector/gate was glowing bright red
    • Massive restriction there
    • Gate/housing turned blue
    • Car didn't want to make more than 327kW no matter how much boost/timing I threw at it
  • Journal Bearing turbo, yes it made the power, yes it came on by about 4.1k RPM.. but the transient response was aids.
  • China Radiator, did the job on the street/dyno/cooler track days.. but on a 35 degree day no way.

20160425_125427.jpg

 

What went bang

  • 1st NPC Carbotic Clutch, turns out previous owner installed the wrong bearing carrier so the clutch was essentially "riding" itself to death
    • Massive thank you to Scott @ Western Clutch - because of my laziness to do the clutch myself the 2nd round I decided to take it to Scott
      • He discovered someone used a VL bearing carrier, it's too tall
      • Clutch Fork was cracked
      • Clutch pivot was fractured
  • Hypergear SS2 Turbo, turbine exploded
    • Completely my fault, they were never meant to be running 1.8bar err day.. but I did
  • A bunch of ARB link brackets
  • Both rear hubs, they're cooked.. makes so much noise now - powahz life
  • ABS Unit died, has been replaced
  • Head Gasket, it's pushing heaps of coolant and exhaust gasses these days when I run 1.8 bar (did run) lol

 

What's Happening?

  • Turbo will be taken off and sent back to Hypergear
  • Head is coming off for a tickle, new valve seals, springs/retainers (maybe) cams... maybe... just tiny ones.
  • New metal headgasket
  • Replacing rear hubs
  • Installing rear traction rods
  • aiming 400kW+ on the stock bottom end
  • Like 8

Another thing I noticed was the catch can actually had oil in... never used to blow oil after the last track day it gained about 50mL.. in the scheme of things, that isn't much.. but in the history of owning the car it never blew any oil.

So yeah, kind of a good thing the head is coming off.. I think the Edward Lee's SE with 500,000km+ on the motor needs some new valve seals.

Let's see how the budget goes, but I don't want to do anything fancy to the head, just a tickle, new seals, new springs/retainers and slap her back on with "maybe" some baby cams to flatten out the torque.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I'll say bad things about the shit lottery that is Yellow Jackets.
    • Yes, those exactly, either angled, or straight ones. I just dug one of my f**ked up old stock arms out of the crap box. 2 views, showing nipples added in places where they were accessible while installed at both ends of the arm, without clashing with anything else on the car (ie the upright, the inner guard, etc). Circled in red.
    • Don't think that can fit in physically. Are you referring to this?    If it happens again, I'm going to get the nismo ones.
    • I bought the 1/18 scale celica and nsx from Justin and they are very detailed and good quality. I will definitely be interested in others in the series as they come out 
    • Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.
×
×
  • Create New...