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Haha f**k how did you manage that? I understand on RB30 ones which have cooked old crusty oil in the keyway preventing the 10mm hex key getting in there.

1 hour ago, niZmO_Man said:

Surprised you didn't put a V8 in already :P

2JZ-GTE VVT-i with a GTX4088R, twin gates, twin scroll would be my pick :)

But... I'm poor.

  • Like 1

Managed to get out the remaining head bolts by cleaning the head, removing all debris/oil/shit then hammering in a hex slightly the wrong size in.

Next surprise were the cylinders, dirtier than a Kings Cross hooker, surprisingly the cylinder bores were still good! Used a bit of elbow grease and cleaned them up and now sits ontop a thin layer of oil.

Head will be sent off next week the Hanoi fit new seals, retainers, springs, cams and possibly adjustment to shims  (if required).

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  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...

head being sent off, getting a few basic things done:

  • light skim for straightness
  • a good clean because it's dirtier than a kings cross hooker
  • installation of stiffer valve springs, titanium retainers
  • installation of cams and shims check/replaced to suit

Also are R33 and R34 RB25DET balancers the same? well I know the R34 under drives the AC compared to the R33 one.. but are the ribs the same?

I have a R34 NEO going in but with R33 PS, AC.. so thought it would be best to use the R33 balancer for obvious reasons. Searching the site (on Google) didn't reveal any answers.

So used the gates website and I can see that both use the same ribs.. however length is different due to the drive:

4 Rib A/C Belt:
R34 RB25DET NEO is 915mm
R33 RB25DET S1/2 is 915mm

4 Rib Water Pump/Alternator Belt:
R34 RB25DET NEO is 890mm
R33 RB25DET S1/2 is  855mm

Turns out the R34 uses a 4 Rib Power Steering Belt and the R33 uses a 3 Rib.

Guess I've answered my own questions haha.

 

 

33 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Still has pads? Weak source. They should be removed for 1000hp builds... Do it. 

No... I'm not a moron.

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