Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So looks like it worked a treat, cathode side on the +ve terminal.

Also noticed the SSR isn't running as hot anymore, explains why they were all dying after some time. When I got back home after the drive with @PLYNX and my mate, I was actually only running on one pump as I previously had 2x SSRs running side by side but without heatsinks. I decided to convert to a single SSR with a large heatsink for simplicity, and that's when I noticed the issue with my setup.

Anyhow, I found this diagram from another brand name SSR and they specify that all inductive loads must be suppressed by a fly back diode.

images.png.0fe3e90de01c13094e2d1ce341a4c042.png

20191013_181637.thumb.jpg.49f2684cdc3dfda20bc92b761ef29d63.jpg

Running at 90% 

Will start to lower it soon when my laptop is charged and keep dropping it till the fuel pressure starts to drop and raise it by 10%

 

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, Looney_Head said:

Hi Dose, do you have the part number for the diode you used? i need to do this for my SSR before i cook another one...

This is the one I used :)

https://www.jaycar.com.au/diode-1n5822-schottky-40v-3a-do-27/p/ZR1048

 

  • Like 1

Hi Johnny,

Love the build, it gives me the much motivation needed to get into my 33.. I am really keen to know more about the details of your PWM setup, any chance you are you able to provide a wiring diagram on how you set yours up? Size of wiring and fuses etc? There so much conflicting info on the interwebs, however, it seems like you have refined the setup nicely.

Cheers

@R3N3 wiring diagram is pretty much this:

images.png.0fe3e90de01c13094e2d1ce341a4c042.png

Output 1 is +ve battery
Output 2 goes to your fuel pump(s)
Input 3 is +ve IGN
Input 4 is the PWM output from your ECU

Battery -> Output 1, just regular 8GA audio wiring. Used a audio style 80AMP ANL fuse.
Output 2 -> goes to a fuse block, with 2x 30AMP fuses, used decent gauge wiring to the fuel pumps

Fuel pump side, used 2x Schottky 40V 3A diodes, cathode side on the positive terminal of the fuel pump. Remember that current travels from +ve to -ve, but voltage the other way around.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

@R3N3 wiring diagram is pretty much this:

images.png.0fe3e90de01c13094e2d1ce341a4c042.png

Output 1 is +ve battery
Output 2 goes to your fuel pump(s)
Input 3 is +ve IGN
Input 4 is the PWM output from your ECU

Battery -> Output 1, just regular 8GA audio wiring. Used a audio style 80AMP ANL fuse.
Output 2 -> goes to a fuse block, with 2x 30AMP fuses, used decent gauge wiring to the fuel pumps

Fuel pump side, used 2x Schottky 40V 3A diodes, cathode side on the positive terminal of the fuel pump. Remember that current travels from +ve to -ve, but voltage the other way around.

Legend. Thanks

14 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Legend. Thanks

Shit just noticed I made a mistake, 

OUTPUT 1 to pump

OUTPUT 2 to battery.

Ironic the wiring diagram was in my face and I still managed to cock it up. Shows males can't multitask 

37 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Johnny how have you found having the pumps PWM controlled? lower/consisstant fuel temps?

Keen for bathroom updates.

Good question, I went on a 4 hour drive not long ago, I should download that data and have a look :)

 

I'll probably let it sit at room temperature, and used my MAPP brazing torch to sear it... will post pics when I cook it, going Korea first LOL.

@PLYNX hahaha yeah, I might need tyres soon and also I have 2x cars I need to tune this Saturday, trying a 3rd place for dyno hire and waiting for them to get back to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Probably a smart choice to buy one vs build, purely for the motivation part as you said! Imagine the metal dust everywhere from grinding all the steel to build one. Ha ha ha!   Also, post a photo of your garage.   Mine is below, this is where I've been cleaning and have already half filled a caged 6*4 trailer. And this is after my cleaning expedition mentioned previously... The middle normally has a car in it, but I'm dumping things in the middle as I sort through them. And poor skyline was dusty and has had the lightest few drops of rain and now it looks atrocious and needs to be dragged back out and washed thoroughly! And yes to the right is technically another bay, you really can only see 2 bays out of 3 in this picture.  
    • It's more like on average the things I see a lot of things going wrong. Yes, usually the people who reach out are the ones who are having problems but on average it feels like mechanics and tuners here aren't really competent. I swing between thinking my standards are just way too high and wondering whether people really are just this dumb. I just had the strangest 10+ reply argument on a Facebook group over someone insisting that the factory R34 GTT boost control solenoid reduces boost pressure to 5 psi when it's on and raises boost pressure to 7 psi when it's off despite showing the exact plumbing in the factory service manual and the solenoid behavior detailed in the FSM.
    • I steam cleaned my near new set of volk gtc wheels 14 years ago and farrkkked them lol. The clear coat cracked like spider webbing in several areas. Lesson learnt don't do that. 😭
    • If you don't touch the CAS, then you're fine.
    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
×
×
  • Create New...