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  • 3 weeks later...

Man haven't done a house update aye, so here's a good find.

Brand new house, blah blah blah. I went to change a light switch and I found these Easter eggs (many, actually all the light switches were like this).

Brills.... anyhow ordered a bunch of screw connectors to fix up this fcvk up. Building industry, full of cnvts. 

20210925_121758.jpg

20210925_121825.jpg

20210925_105419.jpg

20210925_105550.jpg

  • Confused 1
  • Sad 1

WTF Johnny, real deadbeats not even bluepointing - Only serious fkwits bother to pull the neutral and earth to the switch anyway as there is no point.

Loop at light ya dumb karnts.

  • Sad 1
On 26/09/2021 at 9:18 PM, BK said:

WTF Johnny, real deadbeats not even bluepointing - Only serious fkwits bother to pull the neutral and earth to the switch anyway as there is no point.

It's at every single light switch too! Trust me, I wasn't very happy seeing the level of horseshit wiring, but this is what you get buying a brand new house off a property developer. 

Saving $0.13 per screw connector is top priority for some it seems.

 

  • Sad 1

I see a neutral and earth down a wall on a lighting circuit for no reason I lose my shit - it screams amateur. I thought only Qld did that rubbish wiring concept.

No BP's on connections ? That's just not even remotely reliable or safe is it.

Seriously though, I would be finding out the electrical contractors licence number for who signed off on the CoC for bullshit like that.

On 9/26/2021 at 9:18 PM, BK said:

WTF Johnny, real deadbeats not even bluepointing - Only serious fkwits bother to pull the neutral and earth to the switch anyway as there is no point.

Loop at light ya dumb karnts.

Assume it's just a terminology difference, but what is blue pointing? 

If all you've got is twin core + earth, surely you're not stripping out the active just to avoid pulling the N and E down? 

Genuinely curious, not taking the piss. 

On 27/09/2021 at 7:24 AM, ActionDan said:

If all you've got is twin core + earth, surely you're not stripping out the active just to avoid pulling the N and E down? 

Generally you use twin core from the light source down to the switch to break the circuit, all other places we've been at have been like this.

This is the first time I've seen A/N/E at the light switch.

Disclaimer: I'm not a sparky by trade but I've done electrical engineer courses during my IT course at uni for fun. Also I probably do neater and more reliable wiring than most sparkies, alarm installers and trailer experts lol.

 

On 26/09/2021 at 11:35 PM, BK said:

Seriously though, I would be finding out the electrical contractors licence number for who signed off on the CoC for bullshit like that.

I've got the entire OC document deck when I bought the house, the sparky signed off his on work (self certified) and a private certified signed off on the lot for the OC.

 

I am tempted to take further action - however what will that result in? just more headaches, heaps of random people going in/out of my house disturbing my wife and kid. So, weighed out that cluster f**k and replaced all the shitty solder/tape jobs with screw down connectors and trimmed wires to length then called it a day. 

  • Like 1

Same, not a sparky, but done a fair bit of bits and pieces as you know. 

Have seen tons of light switch's with Twin + Earth BUT using screw connectors even if the joins are soldered. 

Tape is a bit rough lol 

  • Like 1

If didn't care about being compliant, etc. I would have crimp and dual wall heatshrunk the lot lol... but need to stick to standards to avoid issues in future.

On 27/09/2021 at 6:54 AM, ActionDan said:

Assume it's just a terminology difference, but what is blue pointing? 

If all you've got is twin core + earth, surely you're not stripping out the active just to avoid pulling the N and E down? 

Genuinely curious, not taking the piss. 

BP, bluepoint etc old sparkle terminology for insulated screw connectors. 

Regarding lighting circuits, it's generally discouraged to run the neutral and earth down walls with your hard active and then switch your hard active at the switch. Doing it this way means you never have a hard active at the light fitting, only a switched active. 

This is very annoying when having to modify circuits as you have to get down a wall to retrieve a hard active, instead of being able to pick it up in the ceiling. Getting down some walls is a nightmare, sometimes downright impossible without major wall destruction.

So better practice is to generally run hard active to the light fittings and only run twin switch cable to switches - less cables down walls, no neutral or earth connections hidden behind switch plates, always have hard active at accessible locations, no risk of neutrals or earth conductors anywhere near exposed actives

As to running the cable because you only have twin and earth instead of just twin switch cable is a bit of a cop out. Don't have twin, go buy some. 1.5mm twin and SDI is something that anyone doing wiring, like an A grade electrical fitter / mechanic, never doesn't have.

On 27/09/2021 at 9:51 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If didn't care about being compliant, etc. I would have crimp and dual wall heatshrunk the lot lol... but need to stick to standards to avoid issues in future.

That's it. Not all A grade electricians have an electrical contractors license and contractors license is the only way to issue an electrical certificate of compliance. You should have one of these:

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On 27/09/2021 at 9:54 AM, ActionDan said:

You have already stuffed it by touching it yourself technically ;)

I would certainly never do anything like that. 

😄

  • Like 2
On 25/09/2021 at 8:37 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Man haven't done a house update aye, so here's a good find.

Brand new house, blah blah blah. I went to change a light switch and I found these Easter eggs (many, actually all the light switches were like this).

Brills.... anyhow ordered a bunch of screw connectors to fix up this fcvk up. Building industry, full of cnvts. 

20210925_121758.jpg

20210925_121825.jpg

20210925_105419.jpg

20210925_105550.jpg

That is some real fked up shits. But sadly quite common these days. IMO basically anyone working on a house (like cars) is dodgy unless proven otherwise (and how can you even do that).

  • Like 1
On 30/09/2021 at 12:58 PM, niZmO_Man said:

That is some real fked up shits. But sadly quite common these days. IMO basically anyone working on a house (like cars) is dodgy unless proven otherwise (and how can you even do that).

Yep pretty much this!

Oh wells at least one thing sorted and I also installed the Google Nest smoke & CO alarm too! Might get another one for upstairs.

After that, will think about some home automation - do have a few of the Arlec Grid connect bulbs I use in the staircase & garage lights but might go with all the lights in the house at some stage too.

On 01/10/2021 at 3:51 PM, niZmO_Man said:

Interesting however those switches need an Ethernet run to them.

https://www.lifx.com.au/products/smart-switch-4-gang

The above runs off WiFi and conveniently I already have A/N/E where the switches are LOL.

  • Haha 1

The final piece before 1st start 😎

ATI don't have an off the shelf RB25DET balancer, so HiOctane made a pulley to fit. 

Might even start the car today 🚤

(Yes radiator isolating rubbers will be installed lol)

 

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  • Like 3

Tried to start the car, starter motor died LOL...

Starter was moving super slow, we tried adding a jumper pack, starter motor got ripping hot and then it stopped moving completely and just clicked only lol.

Waiting for a reconditioned one now :D 

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