Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 22/02/2022 at 4:04 PM, niZmO_Man said:

yeah try finding parts for a GT-R

anything on EFI Solution site? I can help you with that.

BTW... I might have been told Haltech Elite will be supporting canbus keypads and they have a test version working on the bench. I may or may not have heard that :) 

@r32-25t unwire all your old school switches eating up your AVIs, time to get a canbus keypad :D 

 

keypad - Haltech

  • Like 2
On 22/2/2022 at 4:24 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

anything on EFI Solution site? I can help you with that.

BTW... I might have been told Haltech Elite will be supporting canbus keypads and they have a test version working on the bench. I may or may not have heard that :) 

@r32-25t unwire all your old school switches eating up your AVIs, time to get a canbus keypad :D 

 

keypad - Haltech

I don’t have any switches on the AVIs, I’ve used them all on sensors and need a few more 

On 22/02/2022 at 3:21 PM, r32-25t said:

I don’t have any switches on the AVIs, I’ve used them all on sensors and need a few more 

Remember to use your old afm inputs if you haven't already - there is another 2 AVIs doing nothing otherwise.

  • Like 1
On 22/02/2022 at 5:12 PM, BK said:

Remember to use your old afm inputs if you haven't already - there is another 2 AVIs doing nothing otherwise.

haha, already went there, even used the 2x narrow band inputs too.. I went to town. 

No more spare inputs :D 

image.thumb.png.2d99cfb4e8611492e7cb8be8821f5265.png

image.thumb.png.2baf6d9cd4a4f01b06f4edfbeffa570b.png

 

On 22/2/2022 at 5:12 PM, BK said:

Remember to use your old afm inputs if you haven't already - there is another 2 AVIs doing nothing otherwise.

Ive grabbed them and the original O2 sensors 

  • Like 1
On 22/02/2022 at 3:57 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

haha, already went there, even used the 2x narrow band inputs too.. I went to town. 

No more spare inputs :D 

image.thumb.png.2d99cfb4e8611492e7cb8be8821f5265.png

image.thumb.png.2baf6d9cd4a4f01b06f4edfbeffa570b.png

 

 

On 22/02/2022 at 4:10 PM, r32-25t said:

Ive grabbed them and the original O2 sensors 

Same. Don't have Emap but have Exhaust temp.

  • Like 1

 

On 22/02/2022 at 5:08 PM, r32-25t said:

image.thumb.jpg.40e7ad2c8ff2e135f9f874e40af933bf.jpg

thats my list and to that I’d still like to add fuel temp and maybe a trim switch which jem have managed to make work with the eboost2 

You have flex sensor on an spi yes ? Fuel temp is incorporated into that - no avi required.

  • Like 1
On 22/02/2022 at 8:12 PM, BK said:

 

You have flex sensor on an spi yes ? Fuel temp is incorporated into that - no avi required.

Depends on sensor too, some seem to not send back fuel temp however all the new smaller/compact Continental ones I've setup seem to.

On 22/2/2022 at 8:12 PM, BK said:

 

You have flex sensor on an spi yes ? Fuel temp is incorporated into that - no avi required.

Yeah it’s on that but it’s an older one and I’m not sure if it does temp

On 22/02/2022 at 7:13 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Depends on sensor too, some seem to not send back fuel temp however all the new smaller/compact Continental ones I've setup seem to.

 

On 22/02/2022 at 7:42 PM, r32-25t said:

Yeah it’s on that but it’s an older one and I’m not sure if it does temp

Might need to switch it then. From what I've seen the Haltech, VDO, Continental, AC delco and GM ones with the 3 mounting holes measure fuel temp - they all seem to be the same thing if it looks like this. I have a genuine Haltech one on the blue 32 and the white 32 has a VDO one with shorter pipes but same body;

image.thumb.png.f0b5a4cd92178759b1523e6e20d6084d.png

If it is like this below I'm not sure - probably doesn't but I have no experience with them to confirm:

image.thumb.png.2e6a93457178790dd0b3ed75578e71f5.png

On 2/22/2022 at 3:24 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

anything on EFI Solution site? I can help you with that.

BTW... I might have been told Haltech Elite will be supporting canbus keypads and they have a test version working on the bench. I may or may not have heard that :) 

@r32-25t unwire all your old school switches eating up your AVIs, time to get a canbus keypad :D 

 

keypad - Haltech

Bit late to the party mate with that.
Haltech have been really adding heaps of stuff lately with this NSP update.

Still waiting on the Mexico trip video........

  • Haha 1
On 22/2/2022 at 11:15 PM, BK said:

 

Might need to switch it then. From what I've seen the Haltech, VDO, Continental, AC delco and GM ones with the 3 mounting holes measure fuel temp - they all seem to be the same thing if it looks like this. I have a genuine Haltech one on the blue 32 and the white 32 has a VDO one with shorter pipes but same body;

image.thumb.png.f0b5a4cd92178759b1523e6e20d6084d.png

If it is like this below I'm not sure - probably doesn't but I have no experience with them to confirm:

image.thumb.png.2e6a93457178790dd0b3ed75578e71f5.png

I’ve got the haltech one with the 3 bolt holes so I guess it does it, one less AVI that I need now 

  • Like 1
On 23/02/2022 at 6:02 AM, r32-25t said:

I’ve got the haltech one with the 3 bolt holes so I guess it does it, one less AVI that I need now 

just be sure to select this when configuring the input

image.thumb.png.1d103aefa97ca6271d6e947387bbae88.png

 

And if you really want your fuelling to be spot on, make sure you build out your fuel density table. Most tuners don't bother with this and just rely on the static value density that is default on the Haltech. You really need density vs. fuel temperature to have accurate fuelling. Car idles so much better now with this table defined, also with DBW sure makes A/C, big cams and idle a walk in the park.

image.thumb.png.8f11632a1cbcc6a42e579cdbe7fcb23d.png

 

 

  • Like 1
On 22/2/2022 at 6:38 PM, r32-25t said:

image.thumb.jpg.40e7ad2c8ff2e135f9f874e40af933bf.jpg

thats my list and to that I’d still like to add fuel temp and maybe a trim switch which jem have managed to make work with the eboost2 

Adam at JEM setup my trim switch to the eBoost settings and also to boost by gear as it’s auto. It works really well

  • Like 1
On 23/2/2022 at 9:51 AM, RBW49N said:

Adam at JEM setup my trim switch to the eBoost settings and also to boost by gear as it’s auto. It works really well

I saw a video of it and he was talking to me about it when I was there about 6 months ago. If I decide to put an expansion box on it I’ll get it all set up 

Forget about the eBoost, 4 port solenoid and canbus keypad.

Have buttons called 400kW, 500kW, 600kW, Rolling A/L, Launch Control, etc. 

:D 

On 23/2/2022 at 11:43 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Forget about the eBoost, 4 port solenoid and canbus keypad.

Have buttons called 400kW, 500kW, 600kW, Rolling A/L, Launch Control, etc. 

:D 

Mines a dad wagon. I need better names. Wife, Kids, No Kids, Noisy Button etc

  • Haha 3
On 23/02/2022 at 11:53 AM, RBW49N said:

Mines a dad wagon. I need better names. Wife, Kids, No Kids, Noisy Button etc

So this should work

 

image.thumb.png.fa698440a71a5bf1dea2d8b42a5c6f3a.png

  • Haha 2

Walked in, walked out $550 poorer.

I now have new bonnet/hood insulation 😂

Amayama couldn't source one, Kudos couldn't either, even tried EFI Solutions but somehow Skyline Spares could so yeah, sent it and bought it.

This is more expensive than a coacine addiction.

 

PXL_20220224_014744718.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...