Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

[fletch rb30]

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It's that stupid short joiner between the block and coolant branch that goes to the turbo return.

So I'm going to simplify that area and use a R33 RB26 piece, which does the same thing without the unnecessary complications 

 

Are you returning your turbo coolant to that fitting below the head gasket?

Would that not result in no flow through the turbo as you are returning the water to the same pressure as the supply - both below the head gasket?

I thought the return needed to be above the head gasket where there was lower pressure to allow it to flow.

Not knocking your setup, just curious as im redoing all the plumbing on mine and checking out everybody else's setup.

 

Also, +1 for Lexus over eurotrash

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

17 minutes ago, fletch rb30 said:

Are you returning your turbo coolant to that fitting below the head gasket?

I am, however I "believe" (not 100% sure) that the RB25 returns the turbo water line there too, that branch then flows into the heater core. I've had it plumbed like than before with the old motor, and also this motor (same turbo) and it hasn't seized yet lol.

And yes, using that RB26 fitting seems very counter intuitive as you're going opposite to the flow.

However you would assume there's higher pressure coming out of the turbo due to the pipe size, heat etc.

I might need to revisit the service manual.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

So I really need a 2nd working car at home, went down a few possible ways of fixing it

1. Replace everything with the Boost Doc Kit, which would require me to degas the A/C, rip out the HVAC system, install new fitting, re-install and re-gas. This requires max effort (need to take off plenum, thermostat housing, HVAC, etc.) and cost the most. About $1.2k (kit, ac degas/regas, making new lines for turbo water return)
2. Delete the hardline that runs underneath the plenum, replace with generic Gates OTS hoses and shit and add in 1x brass joiner. Delete the numerous branches/water Ts, etc. for the OEM TB & heat exchanger, etc. then run a new line for the turbo water return. About $500 should do it
3. Delete the hard line and use a R34 RB25DE coolant line, it doesn't have all the silly branches / ts for the heat exchanger and turbo water return. Then create a new turbo water return and connect that to the old line for the bleeder. Means underside is nice & neat. At the same time will replace all the heater hoses from the core to the hard lines behind the motor too). Heater core is only a few years old, replaced it when I put in the previous motor. This option is about $500 as well, however it's a bit more elegant than Option 2 and requires much less effort than Option 1 or 2.

Decided to go with Option 3, here's my donation to Amayama lol

And here's the hose that pretty much solves my problem

And this is what I'm planning to fit up to the front water return brass fitting (that goes into the thermostat housing). Converts a barb to a 6AN

The above will go here:

 

Yeah, farken.

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Shitbox Tiguan updates, got the APR OTS tune put back on (no charge for it to be removed/added back), didn't want to just come in just for that (not a fan of wasting people's time for nothing) so I purchased an APR dog bone insert. The boys at German Performance Garage said they would fit it for free too since they had 1x hoist free. Now that's service you don't normally get from most workshops.

Anyhow, tune back on, snow grate pulled out, dog bone insert back in and not going to lie, a few smiles when I nailed it around the industrial area heading back onto the M7.

Amayama also said 1 to 2.5 month wait for the RB25DE heater hose, yeah why not, car has been off the road for nearly 3, what's a other 2.5?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

So one hose is out of production for RB25DET however it seems the RB26DETT one from a R33/R34 or Stagea "should" work. I am hoping it's 19mm like the RB25s lol.

Anyhow, time to wait for over month parts from Japan  

(yeah this time I made sure to cover up my address lol).

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Closer to getting the shit box back on the road.

That long hose, took 2 months to acquire. However the rest were all already to go same week I ordered them.

For those playing at home, that long hose is for a RB25DE N/A motor, as they don't run a water/oil heat exchanger, the hoses underneath the plenum are much more elegant and not a maze of shit.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

This is why I can't afford a Porsche 911 or a new M3.

Farken.

Will hopefully provide me with a bit more  braking capacity at SMSP.

Going from a 324mm to a 354mm rotor will also help dissipate heaps of heat. Not mention, the rears will also be upgraded to balance the brake bias. Believe it or not, with just only front Brembos and the rear OEM Sumitomo, I can actually feel the brake bias towards the back, hence trail braking into turns I could feel the rear end being unsettled. Hopefully if my broscience serves me correctly, I should resolve the brake bias by upgrading both front and rear calipers.

[MBS206]

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This is why I can't afford a Porsche 911 or a new M3.

Farken.

Will hopefully provide me with a bit more  braking capacity at SMSP.

Going from a 324mm to a 354mm rotor will also help dissipate heaps of heat. Not mention, the rears will also be upgraded to balance the brake bias. Believe it or not, with just only front Brembos and the rear OEM Sumitomo, I can actually feel the brake bias towards the back, hence trail braking into turns I could feel the rear end being unsettled. Hopefully if my broscience serves me correctly, I should resolve the brake bias by upgrading both front and rear calipers.

Trail braking done right, should have the rear unsettled, such that you're actually turning the car by a noticeable amount WITH the brakes, and hence noticeably less steering input.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

Trail braking done right, should have the rear unsettled, such that you're actually turning the car by a noticeable amount WITH the brakes, and hence noticeably less steering input.

Probably a bit too much for my liking, like it would be enough to get the car to cross up of you were to over cook and entry (happened T2 a couple of times).

[niZmO_Man]

wanna swap for a POS R32 GT-R? Inferior car.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Hmmm yeah nah 😅

Would swap for a F80 M3 Competition

[GTSBoy]

On 6/14/2024 at 9:36 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Believe it or not, with just only front Brembos and the rear OEM Sumitomo, I can actually feel the brake bias towards the back, hence trail braking into turns I could feel the rear end being unsettled. Hopefully if my broscience serves me correctly, I should resolve the brake bias by upgrading both front and rear calipers.

You could try some less aggressive pads on the rear.

I found (a long time ago when all my brakes were stock 32) that using the same (Bendix Ultimate) pads at both ends made the rear bias excessive. I strongly suspect that the stock Nissan pads probably use a different material, but aftermarket pads will usually be the same material regardless of what pad they are put onto.

That bias situation did get better when I put R33 calipers on the front AND used the same pads - just transferred them from old to new calipers. So you should feel the difference with the change you're making. But certainly do not forget the option to change the rear pads down a grade or two.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

59 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

But certainly do not forget the option to change the rear pads down a grade or two.

100% 

This was also considered however the whole 370Z caliper came up at a good price and I couldn't suppress my temptations to buy it and take me further and further away from owning a factory fast car in the future.

Nissans addiction is worse than a meth addiction.

[Kinkstaah]

I was super whining about this for years by upgrading the front BBK, leaving the stock rear brakes, and not updating the BMC.

The moment I did that I felt the front actually get the pressure it actually wanted, and it you know... worked

[No Crust Racing]

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I was super whining about this for years by upgrading the front BBK, leaving the stock rear brakes, and not updating the BMC.

The moment I did that I felt the front actually get the pressure it actually wanted, and it you know... worked

*surprised pikachu face*

[Kinkstaah]

I was! The caliper difference wasn't that much, but I was going through brake pads at a rate of like 3:1 (and more in the rear). I know how rear brake/trailing is supposed to work, i.e steer the car with the pedals, but this was definitely extreme.

Much better now, getting on the brakes and feeling the *fronts* lock up first. That said, I too am going to use a 370z setup (for this and other reasons).

Update your BMC if you haven't already, Dose. If you already have and have this problem... then uh, welcome to weight transfer at the track, it is scary as f**k until you master the fear and become one with the dance of the machine.

(I have not become one with the dance of the machine)

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

11 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

Update your BMC if you haven't already

Will be done when I do the brakes 😊

Thinking a R35 BMC.

[Kinkstaah]

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Will be done when I do the brakes 😊

Thinking a R35 BMC.

Here's a wild concept, but why not a 370z BMC given you are using 370z brakes

From a quick google, it is the same diameter as the BM57 which is a direct bolt on.

You have an option here to not be silly :p

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Just now, Kinkstaah said:

From a quick google, it is the same diameter as the BM57 which is a direct bolt on.

I did have a squiz but haven't come across anyone adapting it to a shit box Skyline.

[Kinkstaah]

Sorry I mean, from my limited understanding of this, a direct bolt on BM57 will do the exact same thing as a 370z BMC otherwise would.

I.e it should be a perfect match for the 370z kit.