Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

 

(Noting I'm Asian, I'm not a great driver and our DNA has wired us propel either Toyota Camrys or Tesla Shitboxes). 

 

Brother, nope, I've watched a "documentary" that proves otherwise 

images(53).thumb.jpeg.f30831ae5b72948c87a9d381935cee27.jpeg

  • Haha 1
3 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

(Noting I'm Asian, I'm not a great driver and our DNA has wired us propel either Toyota Camrys or Tesla Shitboxes). 

That’s racist 

  • Haha 2
20 minutes ago, No Crust Racing said:

Don't you have a Camry to crash somewhere? 

this page is the best

https://www.facebook.com/camryfail

examples:

image.thumb.png.5d684c0ee57b6170dab1a9345ed09e8e.png

image.thumb.png.31cd471562080fe6b1f8fe3c0f416aa1.png

 

  • Haha 1
On 12/8/2024 at 10:51 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Not specifically the revamp Toyos.

In the past I've used Nitto NT01s, which were essentially the same compound as R888 with a different pattern (that's what the internetz said, so just be facts). I did like the NT01, progressive fade, didn't go from grip to 0 grip in a split second.

If you look at the serious street/track guys, most are either on Cup 2, A052, A050, AD09, CR-S or AR-1.

 

Go the CRS, cheaper than the A052 and same if not better 1 lap performance when suspension is dialled for it. If wanting to do back to back laps the A052 and can cool off and go again next lap will be the better option.
I have gone quicker over 1 lap with CRS than the A050 I came from but may be due to getting more seat time.

I am driving CRS on the street lately in different conditions and its going well, a lot better than AR1 in the wet.

11 hours ago, No Crust Racing said:

MMM ok, 

I see a bit of praise for RE003s, but CR-S sounding like a better option, seems Nankang wants those to replace the AR-1

AR1 is a race tyre, CRS is a Hill Climb/time attack/Sprint tyre. 2 different things, a slick is on the way too.

The mighty gay mods choice of tyre is proper rubbish for those that actually drive on track not park at bunnings at night.

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, No Crust Racing said:

CR-S decent "budget" option, but still a grand+ for tyres. 

No idea what they're like in the wet though. 

probably around the $1700-1800 fitted in his sizes. 
The ar1 is heaps cheaper.

Get on scumplace I got some A052 295/35/18 for $400 that had done maybe 20-25 hot laps of SMP. 

  • Like 1
On 09/12/2024 at 9:03 PM, No Crust Racing said:

People are going faster on CRS than AR1, so there's that 😕

But to be fair, I think people have gone faster on Bob Jane All Rounders than AR1's; particularly if it's wet.

 

  • Like 1
1 minute ago, Komdotkom said:

But to be fair, I think people have gone faster on Bob Jane All Rounders than AR1's; particularly if it's wet.

 

I managed to win under 2L turbo/4L NA class championship in our club with a single set of AR1s, including several wet rounds, and they were still getting faster end of the season 0_0

For $800 in 255/17 I was very pleased (7yrs ago so adjust for inflation)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, replacing all those hoses is kind of just bog standard if you're ever back there. Only hose on the back of the engine I have yet to replace is a vacuum hose for the wastegate. I'll probably do it eventually but it's in such an annoying spot.
    • I was actually just planning on replacing the fourth gear parts in the gear box that I broke … like the synchro hub or cone. And any other parts I need once I open up the transmission. That a bad idea? The rest of the gears feel tight. these parts shouldn’t be too much … just the labour here won’t be cheap. Just replacing these in HK would be around 2k aud including labour.    how much is a new r33 or r32 transmission?    thanks for the good info as usual       
    • I chose a bad time to buy, at the time there was no gtst's for sale in NSW and my options were qld, vic, or sa and not the greatest examples or too far out of my budget. Ended up picking this one from adelaide sight unseen and got a bit stitched up as you could expect but i dont fully regret it, its just a shame people cant be more transparent in this day and age.
    • IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly. If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point.
    • Little hose. Big hose. They're all waiting to kill the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...