Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

When you say full hard on the rear and soft on the front, what do you mean exactly?

Spring stiffness? Or shock bound / rebound?

My Pedders Extreme suspension only has dampening settings, but the spring rates are excellent for the street, for the dampening settings on the street I currently have them set at 8 clicks from full soft on each end (there is 30 clicks between full soft and full hard), works well for rough Sydney roads

When I got them I started playing around from full soft, and kept clicking over a few weeks of driving to get the compliance I was after 

On full soft, if I hit a bump/pothole it would hit the bump stops, on 8 clicks from soft it glides over bumps like a Limo which is what I want for the street

  • Like 1

Shit box now ready, took it to Ian at Porter's Suspension. He knows his Nissan shit boxes very well.

Front we could only get -3.3° after I raised it but that's more than enough for my amateur level of racing.

Rear Ian suggested -1.5° is plenty, based on the tyre contact, said it's not even reaching the edges yet so there's no need to run too much as I'll have traction issues.

Measured up the car, and my broscience and bromeasurements were pretty good. Driver side is about 3mm higher than the passenger side. Slight positive rake as well.

Ian did mention it's rare you actually have people raising their cars for handling because everyone thinks slammed cars handle better but they don't. He said everything the way it is is great.

Ended up with about 7° castor, and 3mm total toe out up front and 2mm toe in at the rear.

Let's see if my rubbish driving can get the lap times down to the  1m50-55s bracket on street tyres.

PXL_20230707_000837133.jpg

PXL_20230707_010455492.jpg

  • Like 9
3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Shit box now ready, took it to Ian at Porter's Suspension. He knows his Nissan shit boxes very well.

Front we could only get -3.3° after I raised it but that's more than enough for my amateur level of racing.

Rear Ian suggested -1.5° is plenty, based on the tyre contact, said it's not even reaching the edges yet so there's no need to run too much as I'll have traction issues.

Measured up the car, and my broscience and bromeasurements were pretty good. Driver side is about 3mm higher than the passenger side. Slight positive rake as well.

Ian did mention it's rare you actually have people raising their cars for handling because everyone thinks slammed cars handle better but they don't. He said everything the way it is is great.

Ended up with about 7° castor, and 3mm total toe out up front and 2mm toe in at the rear.

Let's see if my rubbish driving can get the lap times down to the  1m50-55s bracket on street tyres.

PXL_20230707_000837133.jpg

PXL_20230707_010455492.jpg

Heard a lot of good feedback about that shop

33 minutes ago, Jasoncauser said:

Heard a lot of good feedback about that shop

Yeah he's good, I just tell him what I'm using the car for and he recommends me things and I just say yes.

  • Like 2

Broscience works, what tyres you on again?

Also add mk4 supra to swap list. People are starting to get them dialled up here with coilovers, tyres and brake pads they are quick.  
 

16 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

what tyres you on again?

Just Hankook RS-4 street tyres, I want to really feel the limits of the car and suspension before I put on better tyres.

Of course I also need to improve my driving. Being of Asian decent, my DNA has been programmed to drive Toyota Camrys, so trying to steer a stern drive is always a challenge lol.

  • Haha 3
1 hour ago, The Bogan said:

Politically incorrect, but funny, well..... . .

https://youtu.be/GvWXvw5HHDI

I can't believe how inappropriate TV was back then 😂

  • Like 1

To be fair, Drawn Together was extremely and deliberately inappropriate even for its time, worth a watch if you can find it. Wikipedia says 2004 which makes it younger than SAU

Getting ready to take out the shit box to SMSP, filled up 3x jerry cans and car has E20 or so in it at the moment.

Also noticed last time I was out there, during All Jap Day (useless day to try attempt PBs on the timed sessions, too many numpties in your race line) I tried to take T8 in 2nd and blazed the tyres, also because the throttle was a bit too sensitive so I've dumbed down the pedal to TB table. Should help make the TB less sensitive when I'm trying to negotiate a turn.

image.thumb.png.3c8fa8cb76ee50c0b8206fb24f6332e8.png

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Just go faster and use 3rd 😛

lol... or that!

Tonight I would say is my proper 3rd time out there, the last time I went out was with All Jap Day and both sessions didn't have a good crack at it. 

Then when the track was clear and I was doing a good hot lap they ended the session early!!!!!!! 

 

  • Like 2

Stiffer front springs did the trick, went 5s quicker and not to mention the track temps were quite low.

PXL_20230711_093409016.thumb.jpg.508f3f310c11fff26ac2d56919e2ba0d.jpg

PXL_20230711_081607716.thumb.jpg.e63086c352ce7b9a0f449a1b173eeb42.jpg

PXL_20230711_100045234.thumb.jpg.aa185af8918c60ec4bbfbdb36666a13a.jpg

 

Had to retire the car early too, destroyed the rear pads. Had about 30 to 40% at the start of the night and by the end of 3rd session, it was down to the backing plate 😂

PXL_20230711_102431806.thumb.jpg.b864c83a5eef6412a56e21c7c72b6fda.jpg

 

  • Like 11

And in car footage of the shit box, I believe I should be able to get it down into the flat 1m50s with more practice with these street tyres.

My lines are still a bit shit and I'm wasting a bit too much time coasting about finding the grip limits.

Once I can totally master the Hankook RS-4, I might move to a faster tyre like a Yokohama Advan A052.

 

  • Like 7
On 12/07/2023 at 3:12 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

 

My lines are still a bit shit and I'm wasting a bit too much time coasting about finding the grip limits.

 

I get lectured all the time about this, one of my mates is a good steerer and a data boffin. He's always going on about 'zero time' and how I can't have the throttle shut and no brake input either. I've never driven SMSP but it looks like all the quick guys really test 'track limits'.

17 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

I get lectured all the time about this, one of my mates is a good steerer and a data boffin. He's always going on about 'zero time' and how I can't have the throttle shut and no brake input either. I've never driven SMSP but it looks like all the quick guys really test 'track limits'.

He's not wrong, because that time could be spent going faster! :D 

SMSP is a fun track, it's also very scary. You always have the fear of binning the car with next to no run off!

Here's a lap with my mate driving the shit box, he hasn't driven it in about 5 years (since Wakefield days - had better tyres then, less power, however was lower and had softer springs).

 

 

  • Like 3
7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You always have the fear of binning the car with next to no run off!

Are we watching the same video? You may not like Sandown or Broadford in Vic, that's for sure :D

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Here's a lap with my mate driving the shit box, he hasn't driven it in about 5 years (since Wakefield days - had better tyres then, less power, however was lower and had softer springs).

Can you overlay his/your data with the Garmin to see where you are losing time?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
×
×
  • Create New...