Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

This car should be worth more than an R32 GT-R.

Should be worth a F80 LCI M3 Competition.

Will straight swap!

  • Like 1
On 9/30/2023 at 6:16 AM, R3N3 said:

Yeah, I think they are bringing out a bigger display. I think a 10”??

the ability to programme the buttons on the display is pretty good too. 

Haltech had sent out a survey about a year ago. One of the questions was something along the lines of "What do you think of the name IC10 for our next display" So I also think a 10" screen is coming out next. 

  • Like 2
5 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

Haltech had sent out a survey about a year ago. One of the questions was something along the lines of "What do you think of the name IC10 for our next display" So I also think a 10" screen is coming out next. 

just hope the housing isn't so ugly lol

4 minutes ago, bcozican said:

would swap but already have skyline and in W.A 😅

 

M3.thumb.jpeg.6fe961f7ad264bcd6fac56a66417ed8e.jpeg

sell your Skyline lol...

In white too, so hawt 😍

  • Haha 3
5 hours ago, bcozican said:

would swap but already have skyline and in W.A 😅

 

M3.thumb.jpeg.6fe961f7ad264bcd6fac56a66417ed8e.jpeg

I hear you like roadtrips 😜
Buy a second one and leave there for Dose to look after it. Make it easy for you when come over, I am sure he will also baby it and not modify it............ 

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

sell your Skyline lol...

In white too, so hawt 😍

The white does look great especially with 5% tint

  • Haha 2
35 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

 I am sure he will also baby it and not modify it............ 

Next car will stay stock, no more mods!

Meanwhile I'm looking at a new gear set before I hit up SMSP again. So far looks like PAR might be the way to go, Speedtek seems too hit or miss and can't find much feedback on OS Giken (quite appealing as the AUD to JPY is great, $1 buys 95 Yen).

Sigh, stupid money pit.

  • Like 1
51 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

can't find much feedback on OS Giken (quite appealing as the AUD to JPY is great, $1 buys 95 Yen).

Sigh, stupid money pit.

Good chance you’ll bust it (many gtr’s that have used this set have, including myself) gearing is tall as (140 kph at 8000 rpm assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and 4.11 final drive ratio). 5 speeds suck. 

You’d also need the updated synchros. 
 

It’s also common to have a 3rd gear vibration with these gear sets. Gtr.co.uk has a couple old threads on the topic.
 

Can’t put a CD009 in it?

  • Like 1
54 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Next car will stay stock, no more mods!

Meanwhile I'm looking at a new gear set before I hit up SMSP again. So far looks like PAR might be the way to go, Speedtek seems too hit or miss and can't find much feedback on OS Giken (quite appealing as the AUD to JPY is great, $1 buys 95 Yen).

Sigh, stupid money pit.

8hp70 with a decent sized cooler and enjoy carefree daily driver race car.

All I heard from both of you was put my old aero on the M3 and run clubsprint :221_see_no_evil:

Has tune n pipes bout 500hp for my wife and only does 4km a day school trips basically haha

i dont know how much they are anymore but I ran a ppg in 5 speed box in my skyline and held decent in sprints for 2 seasons at 600hp

 

  • Like 2
12 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Good chance you’ll bust it (many gtr’s that have used this set have, including myself) gearing is tall as (140 kph at 8000 rpm assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and 4.11 final drive ratio). 5 speeds suck. 

You’d also need the updated synchros. 
 

It’s also common to have a 3rd gear vibration with these gear sets. Gtr.co.uk has a couple old threads on the topic.
 

Can’t put a CD009 in it?

The ratios actually would work better for me at SMSP, T2 & T8. In 3rd I'm just off the boost threshold, in 2nd I'm nearly out of RPM. With a taller 2nd, could take those two turns in 2nd.

Hmm.. now that you've mentioned it, you've grenaded your OS Giken box with less power back then.

CD009 requires too much stuffing about, will need to change the diff ratio too, need to massage tunnel, custom tailshaft, shifter relocation, etc.

 

12 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

8hp70 with a decent sized cooler and enjoy carefree daily driver race car.

The effort involved :( 

Ideally if time, money, space, hoist permits it would be perfect for me.

 

11 hours ago, bcozican said:

All I heard from both of you was put my old aero on the M3 and run clubsprint :221_see_no_evil:

Has tune n pipes bout 500hp for my wife and only does 4km a day school trips basically haha

i dont know how much they are anymore but I ran a ppg in 5 speed box in my skyline and held decent in sprints for 2 seasons at 600hp

Seems like PAR or PPG straight cut with synchro gearsets will suit my requirements. Don't want a dog box, as I prefer the safety of synchros in place so I don't money shift the car (and others that drive it).

 

Fk I hate this car. 

I would not consider changing the box until you know it will break (because you just broke it).

Frankly, it is not just about power and torque, the clutch and also user sympathy make a big difference in when it will break, and even a synchro straight cut box is a step backwards in usability (and, it is no faster and not much stronger than a factory synchro helical box)

  • Like 1

The box is about to go bang any second now, I can't even shift into gear past 6k RPM, just grinds and won't go in, hence if you've watched any of my attempts at pretending I can drive at SMSP you'll notice the very slow shifts into gears and you'll notice I wait for the revs to drop a bit before grabbing the next gear.

People with less power have blown their box apart on the street, so I'm playing Russian Roulette with it on the track. Also I think the gearbox shop would prefer a core that doesn't have a minced up gearset inside :D 

e.g.

image.thumb.png.afdee51a504d88fa0eb28e4b11057696.png

 

Right, but that is a synchro issue which will not improve moving to a synchro straight cut box (other than the fact you would put new synchros in it). Smurf Blood is the usual way to cover up that issue in the interim (together with shifting a little more carefully/slowly).

Therefore, if your box needs a rebuild, rebuild it.

Ahh the old drive line bills. Shit gets very expensive very quickly 🤣

Fairly Oddparents Burn GIF
 

The thing about looking at the ratios and basing them around 2 corners on a track, it may potentially suck everywhere else, especially on the street. Those long ratios are painful.
 

If you’re going to do it, considering a 5 speed is crazy. They’re junk. A 6 speed “wakes the whole car up”. All of a sudden you have an option of two gears for a corner.

  • Like 2

The straight cut box is purely from a strength perspective, as there's no price difference between helical vs. straight cut.

Synchros will need to be upgraded to the latest version found in the S3 GT-R  / R34 GT-t box, which makes shifting much easier at higher RPM :) 

Box already has Redline Shockproof in it lol...... 

Rebuilding it, won't fix the issue of the box going bang with the power/torque.

On 10/26/2023 at 9:59 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

The straight cut box is purely from a strength perspective, as there's no price difference between helical vs. straight cut.

Synchros will need to be upgraded to the latest version found in the S3 GT-R  / R34 GT-t box, which makes shifting much easier at higher RPM :) 

Box already has Redline Shockproof in it lol...... 

Rebuilding it, won't fix the issue of the box going bang with the power/torque.

Straight cut will make it less nice to drive on the street, and that is a big complaint of yours.

 

Other than the shifting, what other box issues do you have?

As Duncan said, that's purely a synchro issue.

Hard shifts is a huge killer of boxes, as well as not maintaining them, as it can allow a small amount of shaft play under high torque.

Clutch kicks and shit is also not user friendly on the box.

 

The other cars breaking boxes with the same power level, WHAT has broken in those boxes? Are they stripping teeth, snapping shafts, stripping the splines on the shafts?

And what were they doing when they did it?

Are you also talking GTST boxes doing kablamos, or GTR?

I run a r4c with a ppg gtr gearset in mine and it’s fine. Straight cut dog engagement on the street and track. Around town you just double clutch to stop the clunk. It holds the 540kw I feed it, you get used to it, guess it’s the price you pay  

  • Like 1
53 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Straight cut will make it less nice to drive on the street, and that is a big complaint of yours.

 

Other than the shifting, what other box issues do you have?

As Duncan said, that's purely a synchro issue.

Hard shifts is a huge killer of boxes, as well as not maintaining them, as it can allow a small amount of shaft play under high torque.

Clutch kicks and shit is also not user friendly on the box.

 

The other cars breaking boxes with the same power level, WHAT has broken in those boxes? Are they stripping teeth, snapping shafts, stripping the splines on the shafts?

And what were they doing when they did it?

Are you also talking GTST boxes doing kablamos, or GTR?

The engine torque my old girl made stripped the material on the teeth gears (case hardening????) and killed the syncros and other little bits in there, smurfs blood worked for a while, but in the end the box was painful to use

It was sent of for a full rebuild to "Award" I think 🤔, organised by UNIGROUP, for new springs, syncros, "things", gears and some internal baffling or something

All was well until I hit the circuit and drags a few times when it started not wanting to shift and making a slight "whining" sound, then after a few more hits at the strip on drag radials it was whining like ten whining things

Rinse and repeat, until it started to whine a little again, I then priced up the fix, better gears, syncos and things, which I couldn't really justify, I was recommended to drop the power down if I wanted the standard box to live if I didn't upgrade it all, I then proceed to dropped my showbags and sell the thing

The added torque the engine puts out from running "high power" and sticky tyres is far over what the box and its internal stuff are rated for

I just tried googling the torque limits for the RB boxes, but was unsuccessful, the best I could find was 600-700hpatw, so around 480-560 hpatw if you use a 20% drivetrain loss (rule of thumb)

My old 25/30 ended up making 500hpatw, that's when the gearbox hated life

IIRC, which isn't really likely, the GTR box is rated to 600 "ish" nm at the engine, a RB, with a good page up for boost, would easily be making over that

Again, IIRC, my 25/30 was making over 800nm atw around 4500rpm

Nissan did over engineer their boxes a bit, but not by that much

Are there any RB's out there making 500hpatw reliability that see the track or circuit?

It seems like a common reliability modification to build them with all the fancy stuff, or change the stock boxes out for a delicious shopping.jpeg-1.jpg.ad88c45df61ce99aac17a5f81ebf048a.jpg

or something when your making good power for circuit, or a slush box for the drags

I'm triggered now with all this talk about RB gearboxs and torque ratings, I'm going to light a candle and pray to the gods of "infernal combustion" for my 4l60e and half shafts, that are dealing with more torque than they should really see

Happy trails Dose

  • Like 1

Yeah @34GeeTeeTee grenaded his R34 box and went to a PPG gearset too.

The power/torque I'm making, it's a miracle the box hasn't blown up yet 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...