Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread


Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Didn't take photos, but I realised when I was hanging a shit I popped the rear shim behind the crank timing belt pulley backwards. Spoke to a few people and @NEO25T and they said it should be ok backwards as the belt is front bias and as long as the front (outter most) shim is facing the right way it should be fine. But... Me being me, tore it all down and fitted it properly.

Also last night tightened the sump up, installed cross member, unstrapped the motor, installed castor rods, anti roll bar and all the over bullshit.

Sinco manifold should get here by end of week, just got the shipping details.

Once the turbo rear turbine housing comes, I'll bolt up the lot and work out how I will do the lines. Thinking of fitting a turbo oil filter on the chassis with a P clamp so it's out of the way.

More money to waste, and I am being made redundant end of March lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont know how u get that back one off without bending it, i just had a quick look on kudos at a new one lol.

After some massaging with the hammer and a few squeezes in the vice to straighten it, mine is uni directional and can go on either way ?

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/11/2019 at 6:16 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Round 2 on the oil pump, this time started with a brand new N1 pump, took out N1 gears and popped in Rev. 2 of the Spool Import gears.

Fingers crossed everything goes to plan this time round.

20190210_141441.thumb.jpg.e3b46ac215c57cf229b305fd717163ad.jpg

Nice! Is this an AWD Stagea motor? noticing the second lot of bolt holes.

Also, have heard in passing before that there's some oil pump installation hack to locate it ideally, as it has a bit of intentional wiggle room that one needs to use, to allow for differences in things like line boring moving your crank location - any ideas if it's true, or an unsubstantiated old wives tale? If true, what's the pro tip to get it optimal.

 

Edited by Stribs
typo.net
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, Stribs said:

Nice! Is this an AWD Stagea motor? noticing the second lot of bolt holes.

Also, have heard in passing before that there's some oil pump installation hack to locate it ideally, as it has a bit of intentional wiggle room that one needs to use, to allow for differences in things like line boring moving your crank location - any ideas if it's true, or an unsubstantiated old wives tale? If true, what's the pro tip to get it optimal.

 

Sure is! Came from an auto Stagea with 168k but the oil looked like tar lol.

So started with some basic item refreshes then somehow a few people twisted my arm a little and eBay had 18% off sitewide then ended up with a built motor ?

The oil pump mating face has 2x locating towels for the oil pump to slide on. I believe the hack is to remove them so you can move the oil pump into the right location using a dealer gauge, however that's only if you need to - which comes from when you tunnel bore the block which "may" shift the crank upwards ever so slightly. I didnt and also using stock bearing clearances so fingers crossed, no more silly oil issues ?‍♂️

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Any chance the zero demand ignition table is messed up? Or possibly the minimum tps for it to engage zero demand?
    • 32010-AA520 - R34 RB25DET manual transmission, you can buy this new. You'll need a pull to push type clutch converter (to use R33 clutch kits), or buy pull-type clutch (R34 clutch).   R33 part number if you're lazy: 32010-21U00     Applies: RB25DET.MT.F5; Notes: FS5R30A
    • Hi All, Ive recently pulled my head in and gotten started on my 2year long project for my R32 RB25 swap, I went into it head high and confident it was an easy swap and plug and play wiring. I was wrong. The engine is a S1 RB25 and I'm running RB25 ECU And loom. I got the swap done a few weeks ago and have been working on the car on my time off, however i cannot get the engine to run, at first the engine would crank however the fuel pump would not run,  i dove a little deeper and realised that i would need to connect the wires from the RB25 Body Loom and the RB20 Body loom. went through the ECU pinout and followed the wires from the Body looms one by one to find what was needed to start the car. Now I have rewired the RB25 loom with the old R32 Body loom attached, however i am still having issues starting the car, now the pump works but still wont fire.  The car has spark but looks very weak, however I'm suspect that its not getting any fuel. I have read a few posts related to the "Main plug" near the air intake however cannot find any information on what wiring to hook up to where.  If anyone has done this swap, or has any knowledge at all on RB25's into 32 i would really appreciate your comment regarding this, im really keen to get this car finished.  Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...