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So looks like it worked a treat, cathode side on the +ve terminal.

Also noticed the SSR isn't running as hot anymore, explains why they were all dying after some time. When I got back home after the drive with @PLYNX and my mate, I was actually only running on one pump as I previously had 2x SSRs running side by side but without heatsinks. I decided to convert to a single SSR with a large heatsink for simplicity, and that's when I noticed the issue with my setup.

Anyhow, I found this diagram from another brand name SSR and they specify that all inductive loads must be suppressed by a fly back diode.

images.png.0fe3e90de01c13094e2d1ce341a4c042.png

20191013_181637.thumb.jpg.49f2684cdc3dfda20bc92b761ef29d63.jpg

Running at 90% 

Will start to lower it soon when my laptop is charged and keep dropping it till the fuel pressure starts to drop and raise it by 10%

 

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, Looney_Head said:

Hi Dose, do you have the part number for the diode you used? i need to do this for my SSR before i cook another one...

This is the one I used :)

https://www.jaycar.com.au/diode-1n5822-schottky-40v-3a-do-27/p/ZR1048

 

  • Like 1

Hi Johnny,

Love the build, it gives me the much motivation needed to get into my 33.. I am really keen to know more about the details of your PWM setup, any chance you are you able to provide a wiring diagram on how you set yours up? Size of wiring and fuses etc? There so much conflicting info on the interwebs, however, it seems like you have refined the setup nicely.

Cheers

@R3N3 wiring diagram is pretty much this:

images.png.0fe3e90de01c13094e2d1ce341a4c042.png

Output 1 is +ve battery
Output 2 goes to your fuel pump(s)
Input 3 is +ve IGN
Input 4 is the PWM output from your ECU

Battery -> Output 1, just regular 8GA audio wiring. Used a audio style 80AMP ANL fuse.
Output 2 -> goes to a fuse block, with 2x 30AMP fuses, used decent gauge wiring to the fuel pumps

Fuel pump side, used 2x Schottky 40V 3A diodes, cathode side on the positive terminal of the fuel pump. Remember that current travels from +ve to -ve, but voltage the other way around.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

@R3N3 wiring diagram is pretty much this:

images.png.0fe3e90de01c13094e2d1ce341a4c042.png

Output 1 is +ve battery
Output 2 goes to your fuel pump(s)
Input 3 is +ve IGN
Input 4 is the PWM output from your ECU

Battery -> Output 1, just regular 8GA audio wiring. Used a audio style 80AMP ANL fuse.
Output 2 -> goes to a fuse block, with 2x 30AMP fuses, used decent gauge wiring to the fuel pumps

Fuel pump side, used 2x Schottky 40V 3A diodes, cathode side on the positive terminal of the fuel pump. Remember that current travels from +ve to -ve, but voltage the other way around.

Legend. Thanks

14 minutes ago, R3N3 said:

Legend. Thanks

Shit just noticed I made a mistake, 

OUTPUT 1 to pump

OUTPUT 2 to battery.

Ironic the wiring diagram was in my face and I still managed to cock it up. Shows males can't multitask 

37 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Johnny how have you found having the pumps PWM controlled? lower/consisstant fuel temps?

Keen for bathroom updates.

Good question, I went on a 4 hour drive not long ago, I should download that data and have a look :)

 

I'll probably let it sit at room temperature, and used my MAPP brazing torch to sear it... will post pics when I cook it, going Korea first LOL.

@PLYNX hahaha yeah, I might need tyres soon and also I have 2x cars I need to tune this Saturday, trying a 3rd place for dyno hire and waiting for them to get back to me.

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