Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I meant something like the China Spec or local custom made ones compared to Nismo, Greddy and Jap brands etc. Even compared to the high quality ones, are they really worth 5 times the price??

I've just taken a 600x300x100 Trust/Greedy tube and fin intercooler out of the car as it is just not doing a good enough job at 500kw at the wheels.....it was just making too high temps on the intake.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Sub Boy32 said:

I've just taken a 600x300x100 Trust/Greedy tube and fin intercooler out of the car as it is just not doing a good enough job at 500kw at the wheels.....it was just making too high temps on the intake.

That's surprising, I've seen people make 400kw quite easily with a 63mm version, you'd think that 100mm would be much more capable. 

I've got a HKS Type R 100mm core myself and will be approaching 500kw eventually and would have thought it would hold up fine.

Interested to see how people have found Plazmaman/PWR etc compared to these japanese coolers.

4 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

I'm hoping to do close to 500 with a plaz 76 but i'm realistic that it might run into issues. at that point not sure what i'll do though. Maybe cooler spray.

I just find it strange how they can rate their 100mm at 1500hp+ when an equivalent jap cooler is ~800hp. Must be more that goes into the design than I thought.

Did you get the standard cooler or the pro series?

It's not just about how much power a cooler allows a motor to make, it's more so how efficiently the cooler can cool down the charged air and also how much of it can flow through the core.

Yes a China dim sim sui mai special may flow nearly identical to say a Plazmaman cooler however would definitely cool way less if you measure the IAT post cooler. For each run or pass you'll notice the intake temps will climb however first pass everything seems normal and this is where you'll hear people say bs like "I made 500kw on the stock cooler" then I day sure, let's increase the overall ramp duration on the dyno so something like 11km/h per sec so it's a nice and long run. I highly doubt the numbers would be identical at that point. 

So yeah, long story short get a good cooler.

  • Like 3
  • 11 months later...

Bit of a thread bump here.. are the plazmaman cores made in aus? sounds like a stupid question but its something i cant seem to find the answer to, obviously they build the end tanks and weld them in house but i was curious about the cores.. cheers

Edited by azzada1
25 minutes ago, azzada1 said:

Bit of a thread bump here.. are the plazmaman cores made in aus? sounds like a stupid question but its something i cant seem to find the answer to, obviously they build the end tanks and weld them in house but i was curious about the cores.. cheers

Made to order in Wetherill Park, NSW :)

I can get you great pricing.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
    • BTW, the reason I came in here to "update" this list was that the Garrett G Series II range have been released and I've updated the list with their flow details if you're curious to check how they fit with previous Garretts and other brands The G-Series II G35 990 looks like a banger...
×
×
  • Create New...