Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howto - Install Gizzmo Klite knock sensor on an R32 GTR

Since these kits are only ~$300 on ebay (i used seller "globalautoco"), I thought i'd give it a go.

Required;
K-Lite kit including knock sensor
M8 x 50mm bolt (Bunnings has a set of 4 high tensiles for ~$5).

large.knock-bolt.jpg.8c78073352584380a95
Soldering iron, multimeter
Usual socket set, torque wrench etc


1. Remove/move aside the rear part of the wheel arch lining from drivers side front wheel well
2. Push plug end of sensor lead into the drivers side foot well from the engine bay
3. Remove the interior trim under the steering column. Find a +12v source that is one when the engine is on (IGN) connect the red to that via an inline fuse and connect the green wire to earth
4. Connect sensor to gauge
5. Tie all the wiring away nicely
6. Remove the battery, plenum intake piping, dipstick etc to get some room to move under the plenum
7. Find the front factory knock sensor (underneath and to the left of the 2nd cylinder plenum runner, on the top of the block just below the head to block join. Remove the attaching bolt
8. Thread the 50mm bolt through the new sensor, then the factory sensor, then bolt it back onto the block. Torque to ~20Nm. The factory bolt has a 30mm shank, and the new sensor is 20mm high, hence the 50mm bolt. I used a spring washer

large.knock-sensors.jpg.8b24d116636af109
9. Re-install everything and mount the gauge  
10. Start the car and bring car up to temp with normal driving
11. Find somewhere you can safely run the car at 3/4 throttle in 3rd or 4th gear. Dyno would be best
12. Initiate the calibration sequence by holding finger on the gauge directly under ZMO of the Gizzmo print for 3 seconds
13. Release finger and gizzmo will count down 6 seconds (which it shows on the LEDs, indicating its about to enter calibration mode)
14. Run engine at 3/4 load in 3rd or 4th gear from the start of the power band
15. Hold in this state as long as possible until klite has finished analysing. The two analysing steps are;
    1. Search for your engine's noise profile. It displays a sequence of red leds then green leds as it analyses from high to low frequency and will stop the sequence once it has found it.
    2. Sensitivity analysis during which the LEDs will very quickly flash through green to red.
Once these steps are completed the klite will flash the 1 or 2 LEDs indicative of the set frequency, which confirms it has been set. If it fails to setup, it will revert back to the original settings and flash those settings for an extended period.
16. Drive. klite will climb as you come on power, if it detects knock it will flick up erratically.
You can retrieve the peak reading by touching the klite for under 2 seconds

hi mate, what car did you put this on? I fitted one to an R33 gtst and it just wouldn't work, constantly kept recalibrating itself. Gizzmo sent me a new knock sensor, new unit, new loom, confirmed my wiring with them as all good, and still had same issue, ended up having to pull it out. Pity, cos would have been a very handy feature. Although to note i now used a Turbo xs one which has been flawless.

On 12/19/2016 at 1:35 PM, hardsteppa said:

hi mate, what car did you put this on? I fitted one to an R33 gtst and it just wouldn't work, constantly kept recalibrating itself. Gizzmo sent me a new knock sensor, new unit, new loom, confirmed my wiring with them as all good, and still had same issue, ended up having to pull it out. Pity, cos would have been a very handy feature. Although to note i now used a Turbo xs one which has been flawless.

Doh its on my RB26. I've updated it to add the car. Mine seemed to be working after the calibration run. I see a little activity on one LED during normal running, which is what they say to expect, and i expect to see a lot more LEDs go nuts if i get some knock.

6 hours ago, phatmonk said:

With knock sensors listening, like a stethoscope, for a particular frequency (pinging) I understand it doesn't matter where on the block it is bolted to?

I'd imagine anywhere on the block would do alright as the vibrations would have to be roughly equivalent all over, since its solid iron. The location of the OEM sensors is apparently the ideal spot, and given that there is already some trouble distinguishing knock noise from other noise using the best spot it probably worthwhile.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...