Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts


when relocating battery what mm wire did you get? I am thinking of getting 40mm

Second question is , would you run thenpositive and negative under frame or in cabin?

Now considering i am relocating my battery, should i wait and run a positive and negative direct from battery to my new walbro or just run it now from front of the car?
Finally how do you join the existing positive and negative in engine bay to the newly run wire

Edited by stranger12
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468285-relocating-battery/
Share on other sites

I would search for these answers. This has been covered elsewhere, however, i can answer some of your questions (just shooting from the hip, haven't done this myself).

Q2: I would prefer to run the wires inside the cabin. Its less likely to be damaged by anything there. I should think it would also have an easier life there.
Q3: Wouldn't you want to run the fuel pumps on your ignition circuit rather than straight frombthe battery? You'll need to find an accessory circuit to splice into for this (via a relay i imagine).
Q4: Depends. On your new wire, ease of access, tools available, and what fasteners you have. Suggest this would be best covered by a DIY article or sesrching.

Just my 2 cents, it might be worth having an auto elec cast their eye over it before or after (or both) just so you can be sure nothing has gone astray.

Good luck! :)

Fuses dont detect fires, though they can potentially stop them.
When a wire has electricity running through it, it will increase in temperature.
As the temperature of the wire increases so too does its electrical resistance. This means that more current is required to push its way down the wire. More current will heat up the wires (and so on to thermal runaway).
If the wire gets too hot it can require too much current and this can be the cause of a fire. Wires can literally start to glow and melt their jackets.
A fuse will blow itself to protect the circuit.
The idea here is fuses are the weakest link in your circuits. They are specifically designed to fail. This means that you dont blow up or damage more expensive components.

Not sure if this helps... i understand it, but putting it into words is the hard part! Let me know if you need more info.


  • Like 1

I did buy the cables
They only had 60mm in stock and as i have the car in pieces i did buy it

I guess i need an isolator switch and a fuse rated at 300 amp or something

Here is how I am planning to cable it please let me know if you spot any issues

Existing positive joined at front to the new cable using joint box(300 amp)
This cable will then run all the way back to rear through firewall

It will then have a isolator and then a fuse before connecting to the battery positive lead

Negative lead then goes from
Negative direct to chasiss so I don't need to run it back to front

Interesting question is, when you look at the cable that is bulky and plugged into terminal, where is it coming from?

Is it from alternator and starter? If yes then how is it fed to rest of machine for things such as lights

Fuses dont detect fires, though they can potentially stop them.
When a wire has electricity running through it, it will increase in temperature.
As the temperature of the wire increases so too does its electrical resistance. This means that more current is required to push its way down the wire. More current will heat up the wires (and so on to thermal runaway).
If the wire gets too hot it can require too much current and this can be the cause of a fire. Wires can literally start to glow and melt their jackets.
A fuse will blow itself to protect the circuit.
The idea here is fuses are the weakest link in your circuits. They are specifically designed to fail. This means that you dont blow up or damage more expensive components.

Not sure if this helps... i understand it, but putting it into words is the hard part! Let me know if you need more info.


That's partly true, because if the car is smashes, and the possitive cable is able to hit the chassis, it will make sparks, if there is a fuel leak, or some oil resident or ... it wil light up... been there, done that. Have seen many times at the workshop. Replacing starter, and forget to disconnect the battery... you hot the cable and bang, fire, ifffd there is a oil leakage of such things...
Now anyway, better prevent and place a fuse...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...