Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts


when relocating battery what mm wire did you get? I am thinking of getting 40mm

Second question is , would you run thenpositive and negative under frame or in cabin?

Now considering i am relocating my battery, should i wait and run a positive and negative direct from battery to my new walbro or just run it now from front of the car?
Finally how do you join the existing positive and negative in engine bay to the newly run wire

Edited by stranger12
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468285-relocating-battery/
Share on other sites

I would search for these answers. This has been covered elsewhere, however, i can answer some of your questions (just shooting from the hip, haven't done this myself).

Q2: I would prefer to run the wires inside the cabin. Its less likely to be damaged by anything there. I should think it would also have an easier life there.
Q3: Wouldn't you want to run the fuel pumps on your ignition circuit rather than straight frombthe battery? You'll need to find an accessory circuit to splice into for this (via a relay i imagine).
Q4: Depends. On your new wire, ease of access, tools available, and what fasteners you have. Suggest this would be best covered by a DIY article or sesrching.

Just my 2 cents, it might be worth having an auto elec cast their eye over it before or after (or both) just so you can be sure nothing has gone astray.

Good luck! :)

Fuses dont detect fires, though they can potentially stop them.
When a wire has electricity running through it, it will increase in temperature.
As the temperature of the wire increases so too does its electrical resistance. This means that more current is required to push its way down the wire. More current will heat up the wires (and so on to thermal runaway).
If the wire gets too hot it can require too much current and this can be the cause of a fire. Wires can literally start to glow and melt their jackets.
A fuse will blow itself to protect the circuit.
The idea here is fuses are the weakest link in your circuits. They are specifically designed to fail. This means that you dont blow up or damage more expensive components.

Not sure if this helps... i understand it, but putting it into words is the hard part! Let me know if you need more info.


  • Like 1

I did buy the cables
They only had 60mm in stock and as i have the car in pieces i did buy it

I guess i need an isolator switch and a fuse rated at 300 amp or something

Here is how I am planning to cable it please let me know if you spot any issues

Existing positive joined at front to the new cable using joint box(300 amp)
This cable will then run all the way back to rear through firewall

It will then have a isolator and then a fuse before connecting to the battery positive lead

Negative lead then goes from
Negative direct to chasiss so I don't need to run it back to front

Interesting question is, when you look at the cable that is bulky and plugged into terminal, where is it coming from?

Is it from alternator and starter? If yes then how is it fed to rest of machine for things such as lights

Fuses dont detect fires, though they can potentially stop them.
When a wire has electricity running through it, it will increase in temperature.
As the temperature of the wire increases so too does its electrical resistance. This means that more current is required to push its way down the wire. More current will heat up the wires (and so on to thermal runaway).
If the wire gets too hot it can require too much current and this can be the cause of a fire. Wires can literally start to glow and melt their jackets.
A fuse will blow itself to protect the circuit.
The idea here is fuses are the weakest link in your circuits. They are specifically designed to fail. This means that you dont blow up or damage more expensive components.

Not sure if this helps... i understand it, but putting it into words is the hard part! Let me know if you need more info.


That's partly true, because if the car is smashes, and the possitive cable is able to hit the chassis, it will make sparks, if there is a fuel leak, or some oil resident or ... it wil light up... been there, done that. Have seen many times at the workshop. Replacing starter, and forget to disconnect the battery... you hot the cable and bang, fire, ifffd there is a oil leakage of such things...
Now anyway, better prevent and place a fuse...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
×
×
  • Create New...