By
Mathew1988,
in Wanted to Buy
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Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... 😛 -
I need help dealing with an engineer who is massively overcharging me for an engineering report on my modified, written-off Jeep to get it roadworthy. 🔹 Initially, he quoted me $3,500 - $4,500. 🔹 First invoice: $5,315 (already above the quote). 🔹 Second invoice: $1,375. 🔹 Now, he has sent another invoice for $3,100! This is way more than double what I was originally quoted. I feel like I’m being ripped off. Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What can I do? Any advice on how to report him or fight these unfair charges? Would really appreciate any guidance! 🙏 Am in Adelaide. -
I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally. -
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Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
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