Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 Nissan Skyline GTS-T R33 Manual

Hi all,

Selling my pride and joy - my 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T Series II due to starting a young family.

It has a RB25DET engine which is serviced every 5,000kms, kept garaged and is a perfect car for any car enthusiast! It has only 146,369kms.

The car has the following:

Engine Accessories:

  • 3-inch turbo exhaust system with 200 cell Magna-Flow high flow cat and Magna-Flow rear muffler.
  • Greddy Spec-LS Front Mount Intercooler Pod Filter enclosed in SRI Heat Shield.
  • Splitfire Direct Ignition Coil Packs
  • R32 GTST 10psi waste gate actuator
  • Apexi Turbo Timer
  • Carbon Fibre Cooling Panel
  • Turbosmart Blow Off Valve
  • Walbro Fuel Pump

(Engine Oil: Motul Chrono V10w40 engine oil)

Drive-Train Hardware:

  • 5 Speed Manual
  • NPC Performance10’ Organic Clutch

(Oil used: Gearbox - Redline Shockproof Gear Oil & Diff - Redline 75w90 Gear oil)

Bodywork:

  • Nismo Clear Side Indicators
  • Factory Sunroof
  • Tinted Windows
  • Parkers, High Beam and Fog Lights all done in LED white bulbs
  • HID 35w 6000k H1 done for Low Beam

Brakes and Suspension:

  • Lowered 2 inches all corners using Tein Springs
  • DBA 4000 Series 6x6 Wiper-Slot “T3 Club Spec” Slotted Front Rotors (DBA4963S-L/R)
  • DBA 4000 Series 6x6 Wiper-Slot Slotted Rear Rotors (DBA4908S-L/R)
  • Intima SR-6300 Brake Pads
  • Hel Braided Brake Lines
  • Cusco Master Cylinder Stopper
  • Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
  • Front Strut Brace R33 GTR
  • Rear Strut Brace

Rolling Stock:

  • Black Power coated Rims, PCD: 5-114.3 -
  • Front: 18 x 9.0 with 235/40 Nankang Tyres
  • Rear: 18 x 10.0 with 275/35 Nankang Tyres

Interior Gadgetry:

  • R33 GTR Front Seats
  • 52mm Autometer Boost Gauge on Driver’s side A-Pillar
  • 52mm Autometer Water Temperature, Oil Temperature, Oil Pressure in DIN slot
  • Black leather for centre glovebox.
  • All interior dash lighting in LED white bulbs

Stereo Components:

  • Pioneer DEH-4450BT Head Unit (2012 Model)
  • Pioneer TS-A1604C 6.5” 2-Way with Tweeters fitted to front doors
  • Pioneer TS-A6964S 6 x 9 3-Way Speakers fitted to rear parcel tray

Car was dyno at 158.1 KW

Please note no time wasters or test pilots.

Price: $10,200 or nearest offer

Location: Wollongong, NSW

Contact: Domenic - 0403 858 797 or PM (If I don't answer, leave me a voice message or send a SMS)

IMG_3011.JPG

IMG_3012.JPG

IMG_3014.JPG

IMG_3015.JPG

IMG_3016.JPG

IMG_3017.JPG

IMG_3018.JPG

IMG_3019.JPG

IMG_3020.JPG

IMG_3021.JPG

IMG_3022.JPG

IMG_3023.JPG

IMG_3024.JPG

IMG_3025.JPG

IMG_3026.JPG

IMG_3027.JPG

IMG_3028.JPG

IMG_3029.JPG

IMG_3030.JPG

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...