Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you manually wind up windows on

an R33 if you have no power?

No Headlight Loom or Fuse box in engine bay available.

Door Skins are removed so easy access.

Just need to know OR be shown how to either power them up manually with battery OR wind up manually without power.

Or is it best to just get an auto electrician in?

If you take the door apart, you might be able to apply voltage to the window motor.

I don't actually know how this is done, you would need to be sure of the voltage and current limits, but once you had this info, you could isolate the circuit and power it up.

Thus giving you ability to wind your windows up without powering up the whole car. It's what I would be looking to do in this instance.

Do you have a photo to show where to hook up the wiring to?
Positive / Negative?
I knew I had to get manual power to the motor with a battery, just don't know wiring part.
Thanks for the help so far ;)

IMG_1483591547.843321.thumb.jpg.f9cfe638

Perfect. Rang my mechanic and said the same unfortunately i have two flat car batteries so only half done. Off to buy a battery charger!
Thanks guys! Will try to post a video of it once done .
[emoji846][emoji846]

DONE!
Bought a new car battery as I needed one anyway for my other car once it is fixed.
Built myself some cables using 3mm wire with terminal clips at one end and switch clips at other end so you can easily plug in/out of the switch.
IMG_1483602981.131181.jpg

Then plugged the switches in depending on which way you want the windows to go up/down.
IMG_1483603053.213813.jpgIMG_1483603067.064662.jpg
IMG_1483603086.948184.jpg

Then place the negative on the battery first and as soon as you touch the positive terminal your all systems go!
IMG_1483603153.680793.jpg



Please note this was all done on a car that has no loom or power or fuse box, hence only fix available.
Not bad for a girl [emoji846].
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Glad to hear it worked - was about 8 years ago I did that fix to mine. (Resolved with parts now)


I am having this problem with my r33 atm and we have rain forcast for tomorrow. What parts need to be replaced? My partner has a 94 model but atm is pulled apart for a re spray atm. Would i be able to use something of his untill i get the parts? Thank you in advance

First thing to test would be the above - check if putting 12v across the motor makes it move, if so, then motor is fine (which is great because getting it out and a new one in is a pain in the arse).

If that works, then look into checking the relay, it's the thing in this pic:

http://i.imgur.com/GlGcsTB.jpg

Pretty common for them to go out.

If still not, check the switch block itself, like the switches where you put the window up and down.

If it's the passenger window, note that everything needs to be plugged in on the drivers side (relay etc) for it to work.

  • Like 1

I was lucky was just that the windows were just wound down before the power was pulled. Everything in tact nothing removed.
Just a matter of removing door skins, finding the window motor connection un clicking it and follow above instructions.
Before that i just had to tape up the windows, tarp over top of car then waterproof heavy duty car cover over top. And tape the tarp down.
Car battery, 3mm wire, clips, small battery terminal clips.

First thing to test would be the above - check if putting 12v across the motor makes it move, if so, then motor is fine (which is great because getting it out and a new one in is a pain in the arse).

If that works, then look into checking the relay, it's the thing in this pic:

http://i.imgur.com/GlGcsTB.jpg

Pretty common for them to go out.

If still not, check the switch block itself, like the switches where you put the window up and down.

If it's the passenger window, note that everything needs to be plugged in on the drivers side (relay etc) for it to work.


Thank you [emoji22][emoji22][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
It is my driver door. I have a 93 and my partner has a 94 model, his windows work fine, So i tried his switch(nope got nothing) tried the thing in the picture(nope got nothing). I can hear a clicking noisw when i lift the window switch up or push the window switch down.

I just had a look and the thing that u xonnected the battery to (the wiring clip) mine has some sought of grey paste looking substance. Ill get a pic and upload it tomorrow.

But thank you guys so much.

Okay clicking means your relay is fine - sounds like the motor might be toast. One of the first things I did to my 33 (back in 2006) was replace the window motor; the switch for "down" was slightly floppy, so it was stuck on, and burned out the motor.

Don't be afraid to wipe that grease off; it'd be anti-corrosion stuff, but I haven't had any on mine since I did the motor and it's fine.

IIRC the window motors themselves aren't too expensive; it's the cost of your sanity as you try to install it - though your hands are probably smaller than mine :)

  • Like 1
Okay clicking means your relay is fine - sounds like the motor might be toast. One of the first things I did to my 33 (back in 2006) was replace the window motor; the switch for "down" was slightly floppy, so it was stuck on, and burned out the motor.

Don't be afraid to wipe that grease off; it'd be anti-corrosion stuff, but I haven't had any on mine since I did the motor and it's fine.

IIRC the window motors themselves aren't too expensive; it's the cost of your sanity as you try to install it - though your hands are probably smaller than mine [emoji4]



Oh i have more than enough cuts and bruises and lost tools from throwing them. Thnak you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...