Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What to UPGRADE NEXT!??

So I just bought a R34 Skyline GTT 1998 AUTOMATIC sadly.

I DON'T PLAN TO TRACK IT ! Just for Daily drive with a bit more Power & Torque :) 
so not planning on spending Millions of dollars LOL just a decent upgrade since it has some Performance already.

It features
- Full Apexi Exhaust 3" all the way to Turbo front pipe with High Flow Cat
- Blitz Pod Filter
- HKS Turbo Timer
- Brand new Tyres
- AfterMarket Coilovers

I also did a Full Major service including 
- CoilPacks (SplitFire), Spark Plugs (PFR6A-11), Water Pump (Genuine), All V Belts (Gates),
-Rocket cover Gasket (Permaseal), All Turbo Gaskets (PermaSeal), Timing Belt Kit (Gates)
Radiator Flush & Oil Change with Filter with Castrol & New Battery (Century)

Car is running Great but being in other cars especially them "Hondas" and also my N/A R34
it feels weak and lack of power so therefore I'm seeking in upgrading bit by bit

I don't want to spend a lot all up because I'm now officially broke LOL


Just want to get opinions on what to Upgrade next

Ideas : Bigger Turbo (Direct Fit prefered), Injectors, Fuel Pump, ECU, Cams, BOV etc
Tell me what brands for the part too if you could please :) 

I heard finding a ECU for Automatic is hard or not recommended, or is it possible and if so what brand ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468492-what-to-upgrade-next/
Share on other sites

How tough are the automatics in these? Really don't hear much about them.

Most basic autos with some miles don't seem to like a bunch of power added and start to slip. However a skyline auto is likely much tougher than the auto's I've had experience with.

1 minute ago, 34Red said:

Well I looked up and said that the Auto gear box can take up to 200kw which is as good a guess as any other number and it could shit itself with more or less than that, anything above I will have to upgrade the gear box for more performance. It's a trip tonic so it's really no different to any previous Jatco slushbox that you could change by moving the lever and which is the quickest way to wear them out anyway.

Fixed your post.

Well I looked up and said that the Auto gear box can take up to 200kw, anything above I will have to upgrade the gear box for more performance. It's a trip tonic so I can manually shift it on my desire like a R35


That is correct, I had 200rwkw wit my R34 auto and it was fine. At 257rwkw it wasn't and started slipping bad plus the bigger turbo was off the boil for most of the time so very laggy and s--t drivability. I converted the car to manual and it's night and day with the same turbo, currently at 275rwkw.

My recommendation is to install Nistune, a boost controller and supporting mods and tune the car for the max boost the stock turbo can make. This makes a drivable 200rwkw that is responsive and still fun in the auto.

Beyond that you need to build the box plus probably high stall or go manual conversion. Gets expensive quickly.

200rwkw can be a more fun that 275rwkw if it's more accessible.

My 3 rules of upgrade:

1. Make it STOP. Maybe fit some braided brake lines, slotted rotors, decent pads

2. Make it HANDLE. Swaybars first, then decent shock absorbers, then heavy duty springs

3. Make it go. However, if 1 & 2 are successful, you probably don't really need 3, especially if you aren't taking it on the track

  • Like 2
On ‎7‎/‎01‎/‎2017 at 0:55 PM, GTSBoy said:

Fixed your post.

lol!! but hey they have paddle shifters on the steering wheel man...paddle shifters!!!

but yeah as a auto-skyline driver myself, OP here's what you should do. Don't research any more, don't listen to anyone else, just take my words as gospel.

Get a hypergear hiflow turbo. If you hit R&R/fuel cut then, an SAFC neo or nistune, to avoid this pain. Get a shift kit to make the most of your tiptronic. Get a cheap return flow FMIC, eg Cooling Pro from justjap. Get an electronic boost controller, not some gizmo ebay shit that you can't figure out wtf is happening with it or the buttons are so sketchy you can't even set the damn thing. I suggest greddy profec b.

Spend the rest on a brake upgrade, some chassis stiffening, and every suspension arm/upgrade available.

From there if you decide to chase serious power and spend $$ on the car, then you haven't spent toooo much on power upgrades you're now going to supersede, and still have a sorted chassis/suspension setup.

 

  • Like 1

^^^ Good shopping list. That said, what's that all up, 3-4k + labour + tune?

So with all new parts + workshop labour & workshop tune you're looking at not far off the going price for an older automatic R34 GTT.

Not sure how that'll work if you're broke, ain't a cheap game...

If you're saving up for an R35, I'd avoid spending money on your current car.

Put an automatic transmission cooler on to increase its lifespan.

Off topic, what's worse than automatic "triptonic" paddle shifters? CVT simulated gears (defeats the whole purpose of CVTs, unless you're engine braking downhill I suppose).

Golf GTi with basic basic mods would destroy a mild GTt GTSt on the straight, around corners and even at picking up the slarts...

Yes Golf R over the GTI, but I did say price ascending order lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...