Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Intro

Hello SAU!

My name is James but I go-by Jay. I hope the start of everyone's new year is going as planned, if not I hope it gets on track. I live in the US and I bought my 1991R32 from Okinawa, Japan to TX, so far its received a warm welcome. I haven't got a chance to push it yet because I have something going on that I hope you guys can help me with. I put it on the DYNO and found out I have a misfire. I opened up the spark plug area to remove the coil packs & spark plugs and all of a sudden I notice that I have coolant in 2nd spark plug well, where would it come from? I cleaned everything and put in new plugs and took in for a spin, the coolant came back :(. 

 

James

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/
Share on other sites

Hi mate, that's definitely not the start to GT-R ownership you would have hoped for.  Basically you've been stitched up by a dodge seller.

There's 3 main possible causes of your issue. 1) Leaking head gasket 2) Cracked/warped head 3) Cracked block.

Either way I'm afraid you're up for a few dollars to fix.  The order of the possibilities above is the order that you would hope for as in just a leaking head gasket would be the most preferrable and cheapest outcome and a new/replacement block and the required mechanical work will cost you a bomb.

Welcome to GT-R ownership where your wallet lives in a constant state of openess!

 I really hope you can get some assistance from your seller (but doubt it) and that when it's all sorted you get to enjoy the car in all it's glory.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804356
Share on other sites

I shoota_77, thank you for the insight. I need to clarify my post a little bit. I bought the car in Dec 2014 when I was stationed in Okinawa, Japan.

In May of 2015 I bought a rebuilt engine from a shop, the engine came with metal gaskets, tomei cams, r33 crank, N1 oil pump, new and a water pump. I added a power fc, R34 N1 Turbo's, 850cc injectors, tomei fuel rail, sard fuel regulator, oil relocation kit, oil cooler, orc super single clutch, big intercooler, aluminum radiator, boost controller, new coil packs, and plugs.
When I retired Dec 1 1016 the Air Force let me bring my car to the US. My wife is going to kill me cause I have to put more money into this car...the Gtr life lol

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804366
Share on other sites

Oh ok.  I didn't pick up on the time frame!

Fingers crossed it's not too $$$ to fix so the wife doesn't make you trade it in for a Camry and a beige cardigan! (I think you have them there too??).

Hopefully head off, quick skim, new head gasket and you're good to go!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804373
Share on other sites

Hey Jay, welcome to the site!

As this is the newbie intro's section, this topic wont get much attention from the peeps in the know. I can move it to the tech area for more exposure if you'd like. Although, @Shoota_77 seems to have you covered. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804382
Share on other sites

That's a bummer...

If you mean coolant is in the valley around the spark plug and not in the cylinder itself...

I'm going to say head is cracked. If it was cyl 1, 4 or 5 there is a grub screw that may be leaking through the thread but cylinder 2 doesn't have one. No other way for coolant to get in there other than through a. Crack in the head. I'm assuming all other spark plug areas are dry except for cyl 2?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804442
Share on other sites

Its been a while but arent there some plugs up around that area? I assumed they were for coolant but could be wrong. Worth pulling the whole coil pack assembly off i would think if you havent already done so.

Also, its easier to undo the 5 bolts that hold the coil pack brackets in place to do plugs than to pull each individual coil pack off. If it helps :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804492
Share on other sites

Wow! Thank you for all of the technical information gents, I really appreciate it. It looks like I'm going to have to pull the head off. Question, would you guys get the crack repaired (if it's cracked) or buy a new/refurbished head?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804537
Share on other sites

That depends on what the relative costs are (where you are) and how prepared you are to spend money.  If you drop a lot of money on stripping the head, you may as well rebuild it at the same time (or at least do those things that it appears to need).  If you do this, then you're investing in the future of that head, and to certain extent that engine and that car.  If you've bought an R32 GTR, then you possibly have intention to keep it forever, so in the long term you won't hate spending the money.

By the same token, buying a used running head that you can just slap on means that you now have 2 heads.  And everyone knows that if you own an R32 GTR you need at least 2 of everything!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804571
Share on other sites

Get a quote on the repair first and make a call then.  A brand new bare head over there you'll pick up pretty cheap ($800 USD) so the repair would need to be comfortably less than that to stick with it.  The new head *shouldn't* need machining (but should be checked) so there's less to spend on it but you would still need to get all of your valves refaced to suit.  While you're at it I'd personally throw a set of bigger valves and stronger springs in it and make this into an opportunity to gain something out of a bad situation....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804572
Share on other sites

Great Information Shoota & GTSBoy. I was thinking of saving up some mula and buying a crate engine. I would save my current engine and learn how to build an engine so I can have as Mr. GTS PUT "have 2 of everything"! I'm learning about engines, all of the parts, and how they work. I tell you it's a lot to learn. I now will look up how the valves work and the reasoning for having them bigger and of course why have stronger springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/#findComment-7804575
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...