old stagea mod or keep as is?

[HailDamage]

old stagea mod or keep as is?

I have just gotten hold of a 97 RS4 C34 Stagea and I have just been pottering around getting it running normally. Now few things it is an auto S1, approaching 300km on non-neo rb25det but unmolested afaics. This is the first time owning any turbo car, any Nissan so I haven't got experience living with these cars. My question is should I keep the car stock as possible and just work on the maintenance (it was a bit rough at first) or is it safe to mod this engine with high km's?

I am thinking about getting a piggyback put in and a boost controller (sorry for being absolute noob) but I do not know what I am really doing, just looking for a small bump in power without sacrificing DD ability. It has a 3 inch dump and front exhaust into standard cat and 2.5, came without a muffler so I bolted on a Blitz one (doesn't fit under the bumper lol). I plan to go down in wheel diameter as it has 20 inch rims and it goes against the gearing I've been told.

I have no issue with keeping it stock to DD if it is not safe to modify power. It does need suspension work done also mainly in the front. I got the car really cheap (drive away rego too) so maybe when I've got more cash I could try sell it for a lower km manual version?

[Griffin]

I wouldn't spend anything unnecessary on it, just enjoy and maintain.

[KiwiRS4T]

At 300,000 I wouldn't push it too hard. Get a boost T and run 10 psi otherwise just maintenance - coils, plugs, oil and filter. Change the oil in the auto as well if it looks dirty (many cars have never had an ATF change).

[For best results post in the Stagea section]

PS if car is as straight and clean as it looks and you like it you could always look for a manual conversion and build an RB30 bottom end to drop the head on when the engine finally dies).

[GTSBoy]

Some diagnostic checking would be recommended before doing anything to it.  Compression and leakdown tests to find out how healthy the cylinder sealing is.  Run it up on the dyno to see how much power it's making, the mixtures, the health of the fuel pump (if original it could be quite soft), etc etc.

[HailDamage]

Alright bit more detail on engine. It has had CAI removed and a HKS dome intake put on. I took it off to have a look and the part the goes into the pipe on back of filter has a chunk missing but clamps on fine. Now the oil has me a little worried. I changed it and the filter but now there seems to be very small amount leaking at the sump and maybe even the filter. I'm fairly certain the pcv valve isn't working because the hose that crosses the valve covers is pretty clean and the one leading into the valve has vapor on the outside where it starts. The rocker cover gaskets need replacing as well, I got one side from Nissan but I decided I want to get the full kit off ebay with all the grommets included. I have no yet been able to really inspect the turbo. The spark plugs have been changed but I didn't think to check the coil packs while I was in there. The plugs were real bad, the 4th one was split in half and the car obviously came a bit more alive after that. I used NGK bcpr6es-11 and gapped to 0.8mm myself. Before that a tank of fuel was only lasting about 200km, currently I filled it 6 days ago with a quarter left to go. The fuel filter is new because the previous owner put 91 in it... don't know about the pump yet.

[HailDamage]

Alright got an update on my progress.

I have not gotten up to the diagnostics part yet but I can say I have regained a huge amount of power and seems to be running really nice, but I'm still seeking real life opinions at some point as I am not experienced in the slightest in rb25-fu. Now what have I done since last post?

-pcv valve was sticky and was stuck closed so I cleaned it out boost/flow of intake restored, power improved a little bit but still felt like driving with the footbrake on. 

-had someone back into my car pushed in driver side fender and popped out but not straight anymore

-replaced rocker cover gaskets but like an idiot left the cam seals alone because too scared to drop huge pile of old gasket goo into engine and turns out that's where the leak is. I have still got new moon pieces. Oh and dropped one of the cover bolts behind engine so seeking a new one, screwdriver wasn't magnetized.

-Had exhaust leaks all fixed, pipe shortened and new hangers put on for correct fitment. Now at this point a huge amount of power/acceleration was restored. Before the problem was mainly when taking off from stand still. I was having trouble keeping up with goddamn Hyundais off the line before. Now the power comes on super early in the pedal travel and it's the shit! I never knew what a leaky exhaust system could do to take away so much power. I only wish it was louder like when I had no pipe behind the axle 

-Wheels balanced. The weights on fronts were counterbalancing each other and causing violent shaking in steering and now they've been balanced I can move onto what the suspension is doing, bushes etc.

I think my next thing as said above maybe look at getting trans fluid changed as I feel like it doesn't always do what it's supposed to (like change gear at the right time, esp when opening throttle up) and change rims to smaller size, I need to organize a proper to-do list anyway.

Also I hope this is helpful to any new comers and are extremely underwhelmed by their cars performance but like me have not much experience with bringing a previously ill maintained machine back to life.

[KiwiRS4T]

Good work. Yes you need sealant around the moon pieces of the gasket. When you get a chance do a compression test.

[HailDamage]

I have realized that it's my gearbox slipping causing problems taking off, the day I got my exhaust fixed it wasn't slipping few days after the take off was laggy again but good power once already rolling.

[HailDamage]

I'm back with updates. 

I have had the oil leaks in top end repaired properly and leaks in the intake taken care of, except the pcv grommet failed and still chasing one. Used double sided tape to fit the pcv valve back into cover. The lag I was getting was from boost leak i believe and I still may look into more things while I'm leaving it stock. I want to check my cat out I just feel like there's still a very slight restriction somewhere. The boost gauge and mechanical boost controller went in today. I just got back from lengthy victory drive, can't tell how well it's holding the boost (speed camera central) but the car feels fantastic to drive to me. I did not expect to gain much difference boosting it as 2/2 mechs said turbo needs replacing asap, but the acceleration actually scared me a little.. (only driven NA subis and holdens mostly before). Of course I will try to find myself another turbo.

A point of concern atm is the cold starts are a bit woeful. It starts real slow and has a loud slow tick at beginning. Mechanic says it may have misfire only on start up but not sure how I go about fixing that one yet. Otherwise once up and running purs like a dream all original (ignoring the intake noise of course).

Power steering is working fine but leaks not fixed yet, are quite bad too.

A transmission service will be on the cards, just can't afford to convert it full stop. I think the transmission is ok it's just what it is.

Haven't gotten up to brakes or suspension yet but the new staggered v35 wheels are finally on. 

 

Edited March 11, 2017 by HailDamage

[KiwiRS4T]

Don't buy another OEM turbo ...they are all too old. Get Hypergear to rebuild it to similar to stock specs.

[GTSBoy]

And the loud slow tick on startup will be in the valve train.