Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2001 STAGEA COMPLETE CAR ALL PARTS AVAILABLE

WILL PART OUT ALL PARTS, CONTACT TO GET A PRICE FOR WHAT YOU NEED.

01 Nissan stagea, Turbo 4wd 5 speed tipronic auto. Car is an unfinished project has been sitting for a while, has never been in an accident, not a repairable write off. Doors and tailgate had dents in them have been replaced but unpainted.

Engine has Arp headstuds, Cometic head gasket, all seals, water pump and water pump replaced 10,000 kms before coming off road. Turbo is not available. Vehicle had brembo calipers but have been removed. Rotors to suit the brembo are still on vehicle. Has a 600x300x125 inter cooler kit with stainless piping. Original xenon headlamps. 18inch alloy wheels
CAN ARRANGE FOR IT TO BE TOWED TO BRISBANE IF REQUIRED

CALL 0468698581

IMG_20170107_163906 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20170107_163915 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20170107_164411 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20170107_164422 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20170107_164455.jpg

IMG_20170107_164530.jpg

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

what number ECU is in the car please and how much ?

I am after one with the following numbers: 23740-0V811

  • 3 months later...

Hi there Ben,

I have rusted front turret tops on my Stagea that I need replacement panels for.

Do you still have yours in the car, and would you like to part with them??

Regards,

Martin

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We just disconnected the vacuum line if I remember correctly, booster is still there. Is there a rebuild solution for the booster or a different adapter that will work for GTR chassis?
    • Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?  
    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
×
×
  • Create New...