Jump to content
SAU Community

Thickest Oil for gearbox ??

ruinned
 Share

Recommended Posts

ruinned Enthusiast

ruinned

Posted
Posted
Thickest Oil for gearbox ??

Hey Guys and Girls,

so a little bit ago, i had the clutch replaced in my R34, since i got it back from the mechanic the gearbox has felt more clunky (changing to second when its cold sometimes is really hard, just feels like i can feel the gears clunking together). not sure as to what rating oil he has put in gearbox, so i want to change it to something i know is thicker.

what is the thickest oil ? or what oil would you recommend i put in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468718-thickest-oil-for-gearbox/
Share on other sites
ruinned Enthusiast

ruinned

Posted
  • Author
Posted
55 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Are you sure that you need thicker oil to solve this problem?

Yeah i think the thicker oil is going to make the box feel a little bit better for the mean time until i can get around to getting it rebuilt, a rebuild is gonna cost me at least 2k or more maybe. so in the mean time i was thinking thicker oil to make it feel a bit better and maybe damage it less ?? cause i can feel like the cogs hitting each other and i dont think that can be good for it.

 

57 minutes ago, Hadouken said:

Gtt or gtr?

Maybe you should ask him what he used. If your oil is to think then it will feel shit while the box is cold.

GTT, i will give him a phone call and ask him, before the clutch being replaced the gearbox didn't feel as bad as it does now. so im guessing the new oil is a bit thinner then the old oil.

I live in orange so winter is rather cold here, and if the box is a pain while cold in summer then i am guessing its going to be worse in winter here.

ruinned Enthusiast

ruinned

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, Hadouken said:

If you put thicker oil in your box will suffer even worse when cold!

Feeling the synchros is not a issue. If it's making noises then it's an issue.

Put redline in it if you think it needs a rebuild

Yeah i can feel the synchros, not making any bad noises tho, if i roll along in 3rd it seems like it is going to pop out of gear.

so avoid thicker oil then, shall do.

redline lightweight shockproof ??

also cheers for the advice :)

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

It may also simply be a clutch adjustment problem. I'd suggest talking to your mechanic to see what they think too. Depending on the exact clutch and pressure plate, and how your pedal is adjusted it could either be a pedal adjustment or thrust bearing carrier length issue.

And also ask exactly what oil they put in, and perhaps check the oil level (open the filler and see if you can touch fluid when you stick your finger in there).

Its very unlikely your gearbox suddenly developed an issue the day the clutch was changed....

  • Like 1
ruinned Enthusiast

ruinned

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, Duncan said:

It may also simply be a clutch adjustment problem. I'd suggest talking to your mechanic to see what they think too. Depending on the exact clutch and pressure plate, and how your pedal is adjusted it could either be a pedal adjustment or thrust bearing carrier length issue.

And also ask exactly what oil they put in, and perhaps check the oil level (open the filler and see if you can touch fluid when you stick your finger in there).

Its very unlikely your gearbox suddenly developed an issue the day the clutch was changed....

I will check the oil level and go from there, and also ask him what oil he put in it.

 

i don't think it suddenly developed it, i think maybe the different oil made it feel bad and clunky, if that is possible ??

 

56 minutes ago, Dobz said:

^^ I agree with Duncan. Do you have to push the clutch solid to the floor to disengage it or change gears?

no the clutch disengages at top

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35_Paul
      So whats the deal with the porous block VR30DDTT

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Looney_Head
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Looney_Head · Posted

      Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • GTSBoy
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...