R34 GTR Intercooler choice for 350awkw

[samurai_gtr]

R34 GTR Intercooler choice for 350awkw

Hi guys,

I've damaged the bottom 2 or 3 fins of my intercooler during a fight with a gutter, was wondering what you guys thoughts are in terms of replacements, have read a lot of threads on here with varying reviews so I though I'd start my own for my specific application.

I'm also aware that the stock one is quite capable of my requirements but like I said, it's damaged and needs replacing.

Car has -5's and was last dynoed at 343awkw.

Open to all suggestions from Aussie made, ARE, PWR, Plazmaman, to Japanese ARC, HKS, etc.

My mechanic is recommending ARC or HKS.  I'm leaning more towards ARC as I really haven't read anything negative about them other than they're expensive, performance wise I've read they're solid.

ARC has a couple of different types but I can't read japanese so I don't know what the difference is:

http://www.arc-brazing.co.jp/intercooler.html

There's an 073 and an 079, the 079 being quite a bit more expensive, so I'm assuming it's bigger, would greatly appreciate if someone could help out with dimensions as it's an expensive purchase and I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing!!!

I believe ARC have a wide core version as per http://www.visionr.com.au/.  It would be nice if it was wide enough to hide the end tanks behind the front bar, purely for aesthetics.  Also has anyone ever ordered through these guys?

Been away from the scene for a long time, would I still go through Streeter or Import Monster for quotes or is there a new kid on the block?

Edited January 20, 2017 by samurai_gtr

[Hadouken]

Plazmaman

/thread

[admS15]

+1 for plazmaman. Hit up@Dose Pipe Sutututu (Johnny) for a quote.

[V28VX37]

2 hours ago, samurai_gtr said:

I've damaged the bottom 2 or 3 fins of my intercooler during a fight with a gutter

Does it actually leak, or is it just cosmetic damage?

I've spent hours straightening the fins with a screwdriver on my IC but never had any issues with leaks at the cooler.

[sneakey pete]

+1 plazamaman. get the 76mm one. Will keep your IAT down just fine, bigger is just more weight/restriction

[samurai_gtr]

2 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Does it actually leak, or is it just cosmetic damage?

I've spent hours straightening the fins with a screwdriver on my IC but never had any issues with leaks at the cooler.

Good question mate I'm not sure as the cars off the road and not really driveable at the moment.  Is there an easy way to test?

[samurai_gtr]

The guys saying plazmaman any reasons why?  Cost? Performance? Any dyno results?

[baron_von_bootsector]

Most of the reason would be that Plazmaman (and PWR as well) are some of the best of the "locally" made ones. They perform very well, have top quality finish, are light and fit without having to hack the car up or perform dodgy piping if you purchase the normal thickness models. They perform as well or better than while costing similar to a unit from one of the top Japanese brands but you get the ease of purchasing plus warranty locally from a well known company.

[V28VX37]

1 hour ago, samurai_gtr said:

Good question mate I'm not sure as the cars off the road and not really driveable at the moment.  Is there an easy way to test?

Probably worth testing then before spending big $$ on a new unit.

I'm guessing a standard boost leak tester would work fine, with some pressurised air and a cap at the other end of the cooler?

[r32-25t]

1 hour ago, baron_von_bootsector said:

Most of the reason would be that Plazmaman (and PWR as well) are some of the best of the "locally" made ones. They perform very well, have top quality finish, are light and fit without having to hack the car up or perform dodgy piping if you purchase the normal thickness models. They perform as well or better than while costing similar to a unit from one of the top Japanese brands but you get the ease of purchasing plus warranty locally from a well known company.

Actually the Aussie ones cost a lot less then the Japanese ones and work as well or better then them

[sneakey pete]

That sums it up quite nicely!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

and when someone sees a Plaz cooler they know you're serious

Anyhow, I can get you one for a decent price however the team there is flat out catching up on jobs so it will be at least 2 weeks before you can get your hands on one as they're all made to order. 

[samurai_gtr]

21 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

and when someone sees a Plaz cooler they know you're serious

Anyhow, I can get you one for a decent price however the team there is flat out catching up on jobs so it will be at least 2 weeks before you can get your hands on one as they're all made to order. 

Thanks mate.  If you could get me a quote that would be great.

[samurai_gtr]

Still entertaining the idea of an ARC as I've always wanted one and my mechanic highly recommends them.  Does anyone know the difference between the 073 and 079 models?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

29 minutes ago, samurai_gtr said:

Thanks mate.  If you could get me a quote that would be great.

PM me of what you're after, i.e. 76mm or 100mm, Raw or Stealth Black or Polished, IAT or no IAT, and postcode so I can work out freight

[samurai_gtr]

There seems to be two standard sizes for GTR coolers.  For my power output would I only be requiring a 70ish mm cooler?  What power figure will this take me upto?  Would I lose response if I went to a bigger cooler?  Any other downsides of a cooler that is 'too big'?

[samurai_gtr]

Whilst I have a cooling thread active, I'm also in the market for a new radiator, looking a Koyo, there's two types though, copper and aluminium.  From what I've read the aluminium would be the way to go as doesn't retain as much heat.  Is this correct?

 

[GTSBoy]

Um....retain as much heat?  Not the distinction between the two metals that I would make.  Copper has better thermal conductivity than aluminium, so for otherwise identical heat exchangers it will result in better cooling.  But it is heavier than aluminium.  I cannot tell you which will be more important in your application, although I'd be willing to bet that you're not going to need to go to copper.

[samurai_gtr]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Um....retain as much heat?  Not the distinction between the two metals that I would make.  Copper has better thermal conductivity than aluminium, so for otherwise identical heat exchangers it will result in better cooling.  But it is heavier than aluminium.  I cannot tell you which will be more important in your application, although I'd be willing to bet that you're not going to need to go to copper.

I can get a copper one relatively cheaply, would you prefer a copper over aluminium given the choice?  They're very similar in price.

Just curious to know what your preference would be and why?

Edited January 23, 2017 by samurai_gtr

[GTSBoy]

It's unlikely that you will get a copper radiator that is superior to an alloy radiator at a low price.  Copper rads are inherently more expensive than aluminium rads.  In my earlier reply I said " for otherwise identical heat exchangers [copper] will result in better cooling", but the problem is that there is never going to be a pair of radiators that are the same except for the material.  Aluminium rads have fatter tubes and different fin pitch where copper rads have to have thin tubes because the metal is not as strong.  It's actually easier to get a very good aluminium radiator than it is to get a very good copper one.  And the Al rad is lighter and should last longer.

There are a lot of "articles" written by radiator people on this topic that you could google up.

In your specific case, Koyo don't even offer a copper rad for R34s, so it's not even a point for discussion.  The only parts they list are for their racing product line, which are all aluminium, including the tanks.