Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 actuator issues

Hey guys

I'm having issues with my actuator on my 33 it keeps getting stuck open it never used to have this issue and I haven't changed anything for this problem to arise i can only assume its just seen better days even if I move it by hand it get stuck open halfway..

It's the stock RB25 actuator and I'm running 14psi with a boost tee on the stock turbo would i be best to settle for a 14psi actuator from turbosmart considering that's the set boost level that I always use ?

i have heard some people use a lower psi actuator but run higher boost which I can't quite understand  but would I be right in saying that a 14 psi actuator for a 14psi boost level be better suited for my application?

Just wanted to check in with other members before I go spending the money 

Cheers 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468736-r33-actuator-issues/
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, 89CAL said:

Its better to run an actuator with a lower spring pressure then your target boost and get their with a boost controller, it means the boost comes on a little stronger

So would I be better off settling with an RB20 actuator?

Have you checked the rod and flap? Remove the rod from the arm that controls the flap and see if the flap moves freely. Check that there is some pre-load on the actuator. If the flap moves fine then no harm in replacing the actuator

5 minutes ago, 89CAL said:

Have you checked the rod and flap? Remove the rod from the arm that controls the flap and see if the flap moves freely. Check that there is some pre-load on the actuator. If the flap moves fine then no harm in replacing the actuator

Nah it's not moving as freely as it should but there is some preload  what actuator would be the best option to go with you think ?

Edited by RB_purr
Dribble

If the flap isn't moving freely, an actuator isn't going to fix your problem. As I stated in your other thread about this, you can try freeing it up by spraying wd40 or equivalent on it and working it loose or remove the turbo and have the wastegate looked at by a professional.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett
    • I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
    • Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.
×
×
  • Create New...