Jump to content
SAU Community

Blown Neo bottom end - Next steps?


V28VX37
 Share

Recommended Posts

I suspect whats been happening here is you're pumping exhaust into your coolant through one way or another. It may have been happening through cracked bores (ask me how I know!) as opposed to a blown gasket.

When they removed the gasket to put the new one in, was the old one actually blown? If the old gasket looked perfectly okay, and the head wasn't actually lifting then it could explain it. When my most recent block went (lol.) It would idle on 5cyl, but any revs would end up making it rev fine, but what was happening was cylinder pressure was overcoming coolant pressure and pumping it into the coolant. It otherwise 'drove fine'.

Won't really know for sure until a post mortem (which is $)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

...

When they removed the gasket to put the new one in, was the old one actually blown? If the old gasket looked perfectly okay, and the head wasn't actually lifting then it could explain it. When my most recent block went (lol.) It would idle on 5cyl, but any revs would end up making it rev fine, but what was happening was cylinder pressure was overcoming coolant pressure and pumping it into the coolant. It otherwise 'drove fine'.

...

It wasn't a cut-and-dry case, no. It was an old HG with wear and 150k on it, but not a clear hole or tear. The HG was sent to the head shop together with the head but I never discussed it with that shop directly.

My workshop had to do the TeeKay test several times too to get it to show signs of a HG issue and even then it wasn't 100% conclusive. So in short, your description above is completely plausible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

if only Nissan put a 2JZ GTE VVTi motors into the R33 and R34 neither of us would be in this shit storm.

The grass is always greener

Based on a completely unscientific sample of 90 vehicles listed in Thursday's results, 4 were Toyotas (none factory 1JZ/2JZ) vs. 9 Nissans (with 6 RB's). Perhaps the JZ guys are just above us plebs busting our venerable 'Race Breds' on the track haha :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll go with a straight engine swap, less mucking around than moving the head across. Still chasing down an engine.

What should I check/get checked with a second hand engine when buying?

I was thinking:

  • Compression test
  • Check intake cam through oil filler
  • Check belts
  • Visual check all around

Ideally (but unlikely):

  • Remove timing cover and inspect
  • Remove water pump and inspect
  • Remove rocker covers and inspect

 

Anything else? Acknowledging that inspection will be more limited if not buying locally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's good to be able to drop some/all of the oil for a look.  Your check of the intake cam through the oil cap should be more of a look to see how grungy the top of the motor might or might not be.

Look for evidence of oil leaks at front and rear crank seals, VTC solenoid.  Look for corrosion or leaks at welsh plugs and so on.

Don't worry about belts.  Surely you'll be fitting ll new belts and a water pump before you fit the engine?  I mean......just do those things, regardless of what a check might show,

Plugs out, borescope down holes if you're really keen.  Need someone who knows what they shouldn't be seeing looking at the scope though.  Inexperienced borescopers can imagine the canals of Mars when they look.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm finding it very difficult to find a decent replacement Neo engine anywhere in Australia. I have inspected two locally in Melbourne, one was clean and the other one less so, however both had one cylinder down in standard comp test.

I've called 10+ wreckers all over the country and no one has anything. There's none on eBay and one on Gumtree but the guy is away. So yeah if anyone has any leads I'm all ears.

...

In other news, my original engine is out and the head is off, cylinders 3, 5 and 6 ain't looking too happy. Ring damage, rings are still complete just fused together so in theory the head and turbo are still ok. However, they have marked the bores, so it's a bore and hone job + oversize pistons at a minimum from what I gather, so not a cheap rebuild.

Bill and I still can't work out why it kept on pushing all that coolant, so I am suspicious of the block and whether there's a crack in there somewhere.

32854345172_ff304aa54a_c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/02/2017 at 6:41 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wow you destroyed yours well lol.. here's mine in comparison, but mine shot bits of engine and took out the turbo too lolol

You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look?

I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)...

Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options:

  • RB25DE conversion (well why not)
  • RB26DETT conversion
  • RB30DET conversion
  • LS1 conversion
  • Sell as a roller (gasp)
  • Other, please specify: __________

I do want to get it back running for under 5k...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look?
I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)...
Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options:
  • RB25DE conversion (well why not)
  • RB26DETT conversion
  • RB30DET conversion
  • LS1 conversion
  • Sell as a roller (gasp)
  • Other, please specify: __________
I do want to get it back running for under 5k...


Ecotec conversion.
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look?

I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)...

Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options:

  • RB25DE conversion (well why not)
  • RB26DETT conversion
  • RB30DET conversion
  • LS1 conversion
  • Sell as a roller (gasp)
  • Other, please specify: __________

I do want to get it back running for under 5k...

Barra conversion

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Realistically, it would have to be VQ37HR + GTX3582.  Keep it in the family, make it light, get the extra capacity.  Although it probably wouldn't need to be a GTX.  I don't think you'd be stuffing as much boost into it.

And if not this, then a 1.4 turbo out of a Cruze.  Just to go one step further than the Ecotec.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
×
×
  • Create New...