Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I suspect whats been happening here is you're pumping exhaust into your coolant through one way or another. It may have been happening through cracked bores (ask me how I know!) as opposed to a blown gasket.

When they removed the gasket to put the new one in, was the old one actually blown? If the old gasket looked perfectly okay, and the head wasn't actually lifting then it could explain it. When my most recent block went (lol.) It would idle on 5cyl, but any revs would end up making it rev fine, but what was happening was cylinder pressure was overcoming coolant pressure and pumping it into the coolant. It otherwise 'drove fine'.

Won't really know for sure until a post mortem (which is $)

4 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

...

When they removed the gasket to put the new one in, was the old one actually blown? If the old gasket looked perfectly okay, and the head wasn't actually lifting then it could explain it. When my most recent block went (lol.) It would idle on 5cyl, but any revs would end up making it rev fine, but what was happening was cylinder pressure was overcoming coolant pressure and pumping it into the coolant. It otherwise 'drove fine'.

...

It wasn't a cut-and-dry case, no. It was an old HG with wear and 150k on it, but not a clear hole or tear. The HG was sent to the head shop together with the head but I never discussed it with that shop directly.

My workshop had to do the TeeKay test several times too to get it to show signs of a HG issue and even then it wasn't 100% conclusive. So in short, your description above is completely plausible.

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

if only Nissan put a 2JZ GTE VVTi motors into the R33 and R34 neither of us would be in this shit storm.

The grass is always greener

Based on a completely unscientific sample of 90 vehicles listed in Thursday's results, 4 were Toyotas (none factory 1JZ/2JZ) vs. 9 Nissans (with 6 RB's). Perhaps the JZ guys are just above us plebs busting our venerable 'Race Breds' on the track haha :)

I'll go with a straight engine swap, less mucking around than moving the head across. Still chasing down an engine.

What should I check/get checked with a second hand engine when buying?

I was thinking:

  • Compression test
  • Check intake cam through oil filler
  • Check belts
  • Visual check all around

Ideally (but unlikely):

  • Remove timing cover and inspect
  • Remove water pump and inspect
  • Remove rocker covers and inspect

 

Anything else? Acknowledging that inspection will be more limited if not buying locally.

It's good to be able to drop some/all of the oil for a look.  Your check of the intake cam through the oil cap should be more of a look to see how grungy the top of the motor might or might not be.

Look for evidence of oil leaks at front and rear crank seals, VTC solenoid.  Look for corrosion or leaks at welsh plugs and so on.

Don't worry about belts.  Surely you'll be fitting ll new belts and a water pump before you fit the engine?  I mean......just do those things, regardless of what a check might show,

Plugs out, borescope down holes if you're really keen.  Need someone who knows what they shouldn't be seeing looking at the scope though.  Inexperienced borescopers can imagine the canals of Mars when they look.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm finding it very difficult to find a decent replacement Neo engine anywhere in Australia. I have inspected two locally in Melbourne, one was clean and the other one less so, however both had one cylinder down in standard comp test.

I've called 10+ wreckers all over the country and no one has anything. There's none on eBay and one on Gumtree but the guy is away. So yeah if anyone has any leads I'm all ears.

...

In other news, my original engine is out and the head is off, cylinders 3, 5 and 6 ain't looking too happy. Ring damage, rings are still complete just fused together so in theory the head and turbo are still ok. However, they have marked the bores, so it's a bore and hone job + oversize pistons at a minimum from what I gather, so not a cheap rebuild.

Bill and I still can't work out why it kept on pushing all that coolant, so I am suspicious of the block and whether there's a crack in there somewhere.

32854345172_ff304aa54a_c.jpg

On 21/02/2017 at 6:41 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wow you destroyed yours well lol.. here's mine in comparison, but mine shot bits of engine and took out the turbo too lolol

You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look?

I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)...

Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options:

  • RB25DE conversion (well why not)
  • RB26DETT conversion
  • RB30DET conversion
  • LS1 conversion
  • Sell as a roller (gasp)
  • Other, please specify: __________

I do want to get it back running for under 5k...

Would have blown up quicker if I went to car park meets, and Krispy Kreme cruises. Definitely would have blown up years ago if I went to a JDMST End of Year Meet lol

  • Like 2
You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look?
I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)...
Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options:
  • RB25DE conversion (well why not)
  • RB26DETT conversion
  • RB30DET conversion
  • LS1 conversion
  • Sell as a roller (gasp)
  • Other, please specify: __________
I do want to get it back running for under 5k...


Ecotec conversion.
  • Like 2
20 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look?

I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)...

Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options:

  • RB25DE conversion (well why not)
  • RB26DETT conversion
  • RB30DET conversion
  • LS1 conversion
  • Sell as a roller (gasp)
  • Other, please specify: __________

I do want to get it back running for under 5k...

Barra conversion

  • Like 2

Realistically, it would have to be VQ37HR + GTX3582.  Keep it in the family, make it light, get the extra capacity.  Although it probably wouldn't need to be a GTX.  I don't think you'd be stuffing as much boost into it.

And if not this, then a 1.4 turbo out of a Cruze.  Just to go one step further than the Ecotec.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...