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Hey guys i have a widebody r32 with 285's all round with 25ml spacers on back and a r34 neo engine with the20160826_095314.thumb.jpeg.b2a0d0f5a59c920160826_095314.thumb.jpeg.b2a0d0f5a59c920160826_095314.thumb.jpeg.b2a0d0f5a59c9 33 box and twin plate clutch making 340 on 20psi, and my boxes last maybe 100kms and start whining and another 100kms and 3rd gear has gone 3 times, ive done 6 axles and a half shaft in just under 5000k's and a centre bearing and clutch had to be sent away to be done because it started slipping.... my question is can any body help as to why im doing it?? i didnt clutch kick thor this box or drop it in 2nd or 3rd just fed it on and after 100k,s its whining already, it had a 2way cussco in it and i swapped it for a locked diff and need some ideas on what to check e.g gearbox and diff aligned right, measurements, heights, crossmember, etc etc ive read maybe its the clutch is to harsh. i think its a extreme brand i know its a twin plate, and is there anyone in vic i can take it to that can help me??? My mates box in a 33 lasted over a year with 530rwkw smashing it and it still hasnt blown, im on 3rd box and am its about to blow, im over it and need help pls guys,

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Twin plate clutches aren't made to be slipped, it kills them quick

Locked diff puts more strain on gearbox and axles

Check that everything is lining up perfectly straight when it is installed

90% of the time in this situation, it is the driving style influencing it

I thought it was 2 but i only fed it on this box and it felt like The best box so far,i used to clutch it up 3rd at 100 so i changed driving style fast lol, and my car sounds supercharged after not dropping it once, it whines that much after 100kms in my car and no track days either. i think its the rubber on crossmember dont hold box up straight or right height, somethings up i just dont know what measurements to check from where....

340kws and you're doing clutch kicks with 285 wide tyres? what kind of locked diff?

what did you do with all the old boxes you've replaced? did you crack any of them open to see if there was anything visibly wrong with them? what damage was on the axels and half shafts?

 

It's also possible the box you most recently put in has tired bearings.

But yeah consistently snapping axles comes from too much pressure - this is caused by A. Too much power / traction B. Misaligned parts or C. Driving the vehicle like you stole it.

I did have the slicks on and it was hooking up second like a boss but its consistently broke shit over 18 months and i didnt have a licence for 12 of it lol and only done 2 track days, sprint races not drifting, it has to be some alignmentissue but i dont know what to check

Slicks and a lock diff will do that...

It's all about the weakest link in the chain

In most cars with an open diff, this is the traction of a single wheel, which breaks before anything else (wheelspin), but means the drivetrain has less stress on it because there is less resistance to the rotational force at the other end (gripping the road). With an LSD or locked diff, you have effectively multiplied the resistance by two.

If you then strengthen the tyres with more grip, you shift more pressure onto other components in the drivetrain, such as the clutch. If the clutch slips, this means there is a limit to how much pressure is exerted on the axles or gearbox and the clutch is giving way first. Upgrade the clutch and this weakness disappears; suddenly the gearbox and axles have more pressure exerted on them...if the pressure is too great, one of these will snap.

Side note: Clutches are generally cheaper to replace than gearboxes, hence I often say there is such a thing as too heavy a clutch.

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